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    Legacy Member gatorwade's Avatar
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    R-P Brass for 30 Carbine

    I am underway, handloading for my M1icon Carbines for the first time. While sorting by headstamp through my bucket of brass, there were 50 cases of R-P. I don't remember shooting them and the brand didn't make my notes as a preferred factory load. But some comments on this headstamp from another website concerning loading for 40 S&W, which I load, said the following, "R-P brass is prone to thinness and low/poor/non-existent neck tension". Anybody had any experience loading this headstamp for 30 carbine?
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    Advisory Panel browningautorifle's Avatar
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    I've used every headstamp available for .30 carbine at one time or another and most of them at the same time. The biggest thing I think is trimming cases to the same length and having them the correct length. Chamfer inside and out and you should have no problems. Eventually the case may crack and then your problems will be over. It goes into salvage brass and that's that. Don't worry, get loading...
    Regards, Jim

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    Legacy Member vintage hunter's Avatar
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    The only carbine cases I avoid are those with the A-MERC headstamp(American ammunition). I was given a 5 gallon bucket 3/4 full with once fired .30 carbine brass while back, looks to be about 50/50 military/ commercial. Haven't sorted it all yet but I'd say 95% of the A-MERC cases I've picked out were split.

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    Legacy Member jimb16's Avatar
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    Same here....A-Merc is the only carbine brass that I avoid. It tends to split on the very firsy reloading. That stuff goes straight into the scrap bucket. R-P brass holds up well and over my carbine reloading (100,000 rounds or so) I've had no particular problems with it.
    When they tell you to behave, they always forget to specify whether to behave well or badly!

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