Question about headspace for 1905 Ross rifle

[beastybaconman]

I have a 1905 Ross sporting rifle in .303 that I got when my grandpa passed away. When I got the rifle it had been sitting in a gun cabinet without a bolt for at least 40 years, but I eventually found one on ebay. Once I got the bolt I asked a couple local gunsmiths if they could check the headspace but nobody had the gauges for it, so I got myself some foster go, no-go gauges. Now when I used them the bolt closed on both so chances are it's out of headspace, but I noticed that the bolt was slightly further back when it closed on the no-go gauge. So I'm wondering, because it's a straight pull, is there anything special that needs to be done when checking the headspace? Any help would be appreciated.

Information

Warning: This is a relatively older thread This discussion is older than 360 days. Some information contained in it may no longer be current.

[Brian Dick]

It should close on the .064 GO gauge but that's as far as it goes. The Ross would be headspaced to MoD specification which is .064 GO and .074 NO GO. The same problem exists here in the USA checking Lee Enfield Rifles. The Forster gauges are made to U.S. SAAMI specification and the FIELD gauge is either .070 or .071, (can't remember which), which deems the gauges worthless for checking British and Commonwealth specification rifles.

[beastybaconman]

It should close on the .064 GO gauge but that's as far as it goes. The Ross would be headspaced to MoD specification which is .064 GO and .074 NO GO. The same problem exists here in the USA checking Lee Enfield Rifles. The Forster gauges are made to U.S. SAAMI specification and the FIELD gauge is either .070 or .071, (can't remember which), which deems the gauges worthless for checking British and Commonwealth specification rifles.

Oh ok, so it might not be that far out of headspace because my no-go gauge is only .067. So how should I go about getting the headspace? Is there somewhere I can get the MoD spec no-go gauge? or should I just try adding a shim to my no-go gauge to make it .074 so I can get a rough idea of how far off the headspace is?

[martins8589]

Have you asked this question on rossrifleforum?

[Brian Dick]

Forster or Clymer will make you a custom .074 gauge if you call them up. I used to stock MoD spec gauges from Australia but I can't get them anymore. I'd steer clear of the cheap coin gauges.

[beastybaconman]

Forster or Clymer will make you a custom .074 gauge if you call them up. I used to stock MoD spec gauges from Australia but I can't get them anymore. I'd steer clear of the cheap coin gauges.

Ok I'll probably give them a call tomorrow, thanks for the help.

[beastybaconman]

One more thing I'm wondering is, what's the procedure for checking the headspace with a straight pull rifle like this? I know on regular bolt actions it's pretty simple, if the bolt handle doesn't go down all the way then it's not fully closed, but if it does then it is full closed. But with a straight pull do I need to check to see if the bolt head is turned a certain amount or something?

[M94/14]

You can try to determine how much the bolt head turns on the NO-GO, relative to the GO Gauge. Even though you can see the bolt head open and close on the 1905 actions, it is still not easy to determine the headspace. To properly check H.S., the cocking piece and firing pin as well as the extractor have to be removed so that just the bolt sleeve and bolt are inserted into battery with the NO-GO Gauge. Even then, a light touch is needed to get a feel for when the bolt is getting snug to the gauge. It is very easy to force the bolt to close and slightly compress the NO-GO Gauge, that is the reason for the light touch! If you use a light touch and the bolt closes completely on the NO-GO, you can still get an idea as to how excessive the H.S. might be by then pushing forward on the back of the bolt body. If the bolt locking lugs move forward during this test, then you have more than .006-.007" H.S.

I decided that since I wouldn't be able to easily fix any Headspace issue anyway, (not having a selection of 1905 Ross bolts to choose from) that I would obtain a small "O" ring, or tiny elastic bands, put these over the rims of each round, then chamber and fire. The "O" ring or elastic would force the rim against the bolt face when chambered and fireform the case to perfect H.S. for the rifle. From then on, you neck size, and reload for that rifle.

[beastybaconman]

You can try to determine how much the bolt head turns on the NO-GO, relative to the GO Gauge. Even though you can see the bolt head open and close on the 1905 actions, it is still not easy to determine the headspace. To properly check H.S., the cocking piece and firing pin as well as the extractor have to be removed so that just the bolt sleeve and bolt are inserted into battery with the NO-GO Gauge. Even then, a light touch is needed to get a feel for when the bolt is getting snug to the gauge. It is very easy to force the bolt to close and slightly compress the NO-GO Gauge, that is the reason for the light touch! If you use a light touch and the bolt closes completely on the NO-GO, you can still get an idea as to how excessive the H.S. might be by then pushing forward on the back of the bolt body. If the bolt locking lugs move forward during this test, then you have more than .006-.007" H.S.

I decided that since I wouldn't be able to easily fix any Headspace issue anyway, (not having a selection of 1905 Ross bolts to choose from) that I would obtain a small "O" ring, or tiny elastic bands, put these over the rims of each round, then chamber and fire. The "O" ring or elastic would force the rim against the bolt face when chambered and fireform the case to perfect H.S. for the rifle. From then on, you neck size, and reload for that rifle.

Ok I'll try checking it like that, I was always checking with a fully assembled bolt. But if the headspace is bad couldn't a gunsmith just redrill the chamber then thread the barrel in another turn to fix it?

[browningautorifle]

couldn't a gunsmith just redrill the chamber then thread the barrel in another turn to fix it?

WAAAAAY easier said than done. I doubt you can find a guy to do that.