Interesting Field Grade

[Doco overboard]

[ATTACH][ATTACH]Attachment 80037[/ATTACH][/ATTACH] Recently received after about a 1 1/2 month wait and was completely satisfied, thanks for looking.

Information

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[cipherk98]

WOW, haven't heard of a 5 digit going out via mail order in quite awhile. And I thought the CMP did me a favor when they sent me a 6 digit with original parkerizing for my Service Grade last year. Was that just a normal Field Grade or a Field Grade Special? I've heard they are getting near the end and been considering putting in an order for another

[Doco overboard]

Its just a regular field grade. I never would have guessed one with a lower serial # would have been sent.

[AFJon]

Nice rifle. Why surprised by the serial number?

[Bob Seijas]

How about the very early Gas Trap trigger guard!

[browningautorifle]

How about the very early Gas Trap trigger guard!

Exactly, a double surprise. Might be worth doing a complete strip and detailed photo show.

[Joe W]

How about the very early Gas Trap trigger guard!

First or second variation with concentric rings I believe. Wonder what that trigger guard would sell for ?

Is the drawing number C46025 or C 46025. According to Canfields book the C 46025 would be correct for the OP's serial number.

[Doco overboard]

Nice rifle. Why surprised by the serial number?

I just wouldn't have guessed that out of the millions of rifles manufactured one in the first 21000 manufactured would have found its way to me. When I made the order I even requested a replacement barrel because I thought that I may not be happy with how it would gauge and was more or less just looking for a project. I was advised elsewhere to go to the SS and pick one out, wait for a service grade etc. I think if I would have been able to do that I would have picked this one anyhow. It has HRA op rod and hammer, a WRA bolt D28287-1 SA trigger housing D28290-12, 12-44 SA barrel 7th round mod and what I believe to be a replacement stock Overton maybe and a gas cylinder with an O on the rear ring with a humped lock. There are no marks on the follower bullet guide or op rod catch. I need to study up more on the smaller bits for the purpose of being able to properly identify them. What I have done is, touch the muzzle up lightly with a Brownells hand turned cutter, a .302 pin gauge is tight. Strip clean and grease with bore clean that is still underway, free stuck ejector, gauge head-space and tilt test. What needs done is to tighten up the rear sight apparatus and thats all I'm going to do, and see how well it shoots of course and then just leave it alone. And get more pictures for those that want to see more.

[Doco overboard]

Attachment 80187 First 8 rounds during initial function/ safety check. 100yds prone

[Jason60chev]

I just wouldn't have guessed that out of the millions of rifles manufactured one in the first 21000 manufactured would have found its way to me. When I made the order I even requested a replacement barrel because I thought that I may not be happy with how it would gauge and was more or less just looking for a project. I was advised elsewhere to go to the SS and pick one out, wait for a service grade etc. I think if I would have been able to do that I would have picked this one anyhow. It has HRA op rod and hammer, a WRA bolt D28287-1 SA trigger housing D28290-12, 12-44 SA barrel 7th round mod and what I believe to be a replacement stock Overton maybe and a gas cylinder with an O on the rear ring with a humped lock. There are no marks on the follower bullet guide or op rod catch. I need to study up more on the smaller bits for the purpose of being able to properly identify them. What I have done is, touch the muzzle up lightly with a Brownells hand turned cutter, a .302 pin gauge is tight. Strip clean and grease with bore clean that is still underway, free stuck ejector, gauge head-space and tilt test. What needs done is to tighten up the rear sight apparatus and thats all I'm going to do, and see how well it shoots of course and then just leave it alone. And get more pictures for those that want to see more.

I seen/heard many people at the CMP stores talking about purchasing a Field or even rack grad and replacing the barrels. My thought is, the new barrel is going to cost about $200, then, unless you can do it yourself and have the tools, it might cost another $100 to have the new barrel installed, finish reamed and head spaced. That money could go into a Service or higher grade rifle, which you would get a better barrel, possibly a better stock and internal parts. Just my opinion about that, as I have thought the same and priced out the difference.