Trigger pull. No4 MK1*

[Chubbs]

Hi Guys

Should there be a continuous smooth pull or a clear change from a stage 1 to 2. Mine has a very smooth long pull.

Regards Chubbs

Information

Warning: This is a relatively older thread This discussion is older than 360 days. Some information contained in it may no longer be current.

[Ridolpho]

https://www.milsurps.com/content.php...-Peter-Laidler)

Chubbs: definitely not optimal. Check out this article from the forum library (as well as part 1). Get a good understanding of what's happening before trying to make any changes.

Ridolpho

[Badger]

As Ridolpho pointed out, here's links to the full MKL article ..

With thanks to Advisory Panel member Peter Laidler, check his article presented in two parts in the Technical Articles for Milsurp Collectors and Re-loaders (click here).

"The Trigger Pull-Off" - Part 1 (By Peter Laidler) (click here)

"The Trigger Pull-Off" - Part 2 (By Peter Laidler) (click here)


This interesting article is accompanied by a detailed photo montage of a previously damaged skeletonised No.4(T) rifle, used as a training piece for budding Armourers to learn with and develop their skills. As Peter says "It appeared that this ‘rifle’ had never been finished as a ‘T’ as the front pad hole had not been drilled. During bead blasting after a hard life as a skeletonised rifle, it was established that the screw had sheared off and simply been made off level. Drilled out and extracted, it’s back to its former self. Waste not, want not as they say…". Other photos in the article show the clear interaction of the sear, cocking piece and trigger during various phases of its operation.

Article Extract .....

Pictorially, this shows the trigger at the end of the first pull, both ribs touching the trigger bent or flat of the sear with the sear nose at the extreme edge of the cocking piece………, just ready for the off.


(Click PIC to Enlarge)

Hope that helps …

Regards,
Doug

[mrclark303]

I would echo the above excellent advice, get yourself a beer (or three), put a log on the fire, sit back in your favourite arm chair and read and thoughly digest Peter's excellent article before making any changes..

[browningautorifle]

a very smooth long pull.

I had one that someone had removed one of the ribs, another that had the face of the cocking piece stoned so much it just had a single stage. One of my sporting #5 carbines had poor fitted wood that caused a single stage pull, once I fitted things correctly, the two stage was returned and nice.

[mrclark303]

I had one that someone had removed one of the ribs, another that had the face of the cocking piece stoned so much it just had a single stage. One of my sporting #5 carbines had poor fitted wood that caused a single stage pull, once I fitted things correctly, the two stage was returned and nice.

I have a spare No4 trigger somewhere just the same Jim, rib removed, I guess that's 70 odd years of rifle club mods for you, personally I don't see why you would want to get rid of the second stage...

[browningautorifle]

I don't see why you would want to get rid of the second stage...

People thinking they'll make it better...even though it's perfection.

[Chubbs]

Cheers Guys

Great article thanks Ridolpho and Doug.

Having read the articles I stripped down my rifle removing the furniture and then putting the trigger and guard back on. Hey presto the trigger now has 2 crisp stages. Looks Like most of the parts are brand new. I guess it was either put back together incorrectly or the furniture was off a different gun and just needs bedding in.

Regards Chubbs

[Peter Laidler]

Here's another thing before you do that again.......... NEVER remove the fore-end by pulling it down and off from the muzzle end. Never, ever.......... ALWAYS remove the fore-end by tapping the two top rear edges downwards to loosen the tapered lock between the drawers and butt socket.

[Ovidio]

Here's another thing before you do that again.......... NEVER remove the fore-end by pulling it down and off from the muzzle end. Never, ever.......... ALWAYS remove the fore-end by tapping the two top rear edges downwards to loosen the tapered lock between the drawers and butt socket.

Dear Peter, I'm at a loss right now.
What does that exactly mean?
I wanted to "strip" my No. 4 but now you froze me a bit.
I must understand what that means before I get moving......
I'll look at the rifle rereading this later tonight. Maybe I'll get it then.