Help with Broken Bolt Damaged Receiver M1 Carbine

[a1parrothead]

Hello again everyone,
Well I got a lot of help from you guys regarding identifying parts on my mostly Rock-Ola M1. But now... tragedy has befallen my meager existence!

Went and shot it today and on the last round the bolt broke in the right lug area ( I have read about this), but I think its much worse then that, my receiver is damaged on the left side.

The area on the left side of the receiver where the bolt notches into has a divot out of it on the underside. If you are looking straight down on it you cannot see it. But with the bolt and mag out you can see the damage.

I am sick to my stomach. Waited a long time to buy this and paid a pretty penny. Now what? I know I need a bolt, but am I screwed on my receiver?

Any and all help/advice is needed and appreciated. Where can I get a bolt? Can the receiver be salvaged and by who? At what cost?

Thanks, Jeff

Information

Warning: This is a relatively older thread This discussion is older than 360 days. Some information contained in it may no longer be current.

[browningautorifle]

Something major must have happened for that? There must have been something noticeable? I think it should be carefully inspected before shooting again, more than just a new bolt and a touchup on the inside track...

[USGI]

Jeff, that does not look good. Bolts are easy to come by, but the receiver scares me. Is there also damage on the RH side ? See white arrow on this image. If you have a gunsmith there that you trust, take it to him to be checked over. If you don't have someone there, call Floyd or Robin at the "Old Mill" in The Dalles. Were you shooting name brand ammo, and do you have any of it left? If you have some left, check it closely for case length and overall length. I've had some that you could actually see the difference without even measuring it. The bolt didn't close fully on it, and luckily the safety feature built into the carbine kept the hammer from contacting the firing pin. Bolts can and do fail, and what you see is typical of what can happen. Sorry it happened to your new carbine! - Bob

[a1parrothead]

The right hand side looks fine on close inspection. No other notable damage other then whats in the pictures.

Sadly, and I must admit it out loud, it is an ammo issue. I was shooting reloads from a trusted friend. The round did in fact fire and was subsequently lodged in the chamber. I was able to pull the bolt back, eject it and inspect the case. The primer was as flat as a pancake. No other signs of over pressure like splits or bulging, but the primer was FLAT!

So much for his reloads. I am not sure of the load. Stupid me. I have reloaded for over 30 years and knew better then to trust someone else loads. In fact, immediately prior to pulling the trigger, I thought better of it and did not follow my gut.

My fault. I just hope the receiver can be repaired. Thoughts?

As far as the bolt, due to correctly matching it for head spacing etc., I have read it may be better to have a gunsmith do it. I could just buy one and drop it in after receiver repair, but that does not seem wise even if the gun is given a clean bill of health by a gunsmith for bolt replacement.

Anybody have any thoughts on replacing your own bolt without a gunsmith?
Jeff

[Bruce McAskill]

You need a good gunsmith that has worked on carbines who can repair the left side lug recess. This may have been damaged before and could have been the cause of your bolt letting go. It can be repaired and a new bolt fitted. But your old bolt is DOA and you can strip it of it's parts. The recess can be welded and machined making it like new again. Just as long as the heat of welding is taken away from the receiver when it is welded but a good gunsmith will know that. You can fined new bolts on Ebay or Gun Broker. Just keep looking till you find what your looking for.

[CINDERS]

I am sorry you have had this happened to you and your rifle as you alluded in your reply that " In fact, immediately prior to pulling the trigger, I thought better of it and did not follow my gut. "
I categorically will not shoot anyone's reloads in my rifles if I am given any of them I say fine I will take them home dump the powder & primer and after conducting the regular checks for length and head separation (I only have 303's we are not allowed S/A's)) reconstitute the round with my gear.

Did you keep any of the rounds that he reloaded or have you shot the lot as it would be good to get one apart to try and identify the charge weight & powder (which you can do) E.G AR 2209 (Hog-4350 or IMR-4350 for the USA) looks vastly different than say RE-19 or N-150.
Already a couple of members have commented others will be along shortly as well to help you get back on the range again to enjoy your rifle as thats what it is all about.

[a1parrothead]

How true. I KNEW better! I will inspect the remaining rounds and touch bases with him regarding the load. Right now I am just upset over the damage. Again, I know I can get a bolt, but was pretty worried about the receiver. Sounds like it can be repaired, so I feel better.

Jeff

[skip_c]

I only shoot military surplus or commercial ammo from CMP. If reloading saves me two cent a round, but cost me two hundred in repairs I think I'm ahead of the game.
Skip

[painter777]

Hi Jeff,
I remember the first time I took a close look at the carbine we grew up with that my Father snuck home from the Philippines. After looking at the bottom left guide way that the bolt's left lug rides on top of .... I seen the shape of it and thought it was messed up, with metal missing. Made me sick, but later learned it was how it was suppose to be. I'm using your picture here to show it. Increase the picture size and It looks like primer cup fragments laying in the track or something like it....... Doesn't it ?



For now get a few of 'HIS' reloads so the loaded casings can be measured for Length.
Closely look over the inside of your chamber for any obstructions.
Then read this link, It's very important that no burs are on the right and especially the left bolt guide ways. We'll address the bolts' left and right locking shoulders later. Be sure to see figure 50 on page 76 .

Take a breath and read this... paying close attention to anything INSPECTION related... like : knocking down burs on the bolt lug guide ways, op slide track... etc

I'll pull out a Rock ola receiver so we can swap pictures for comparison Wednesday.

http://www.90thidpg.us/Reference/Man...-1276_1947.pdf

Charlie-P777

[painter777]

After looking at the bottom left guide way that the bolt's left lug rides on top of .... I seen the shape of it and thought it was messed up, with metal missing.

Mine has some wavy cut outs and I don't know if that's machining or not.

You're seeing what I tried to describe in my Quote above from post #9 on page 1. Not knowing any better at that time, I thought that carbine was ruined.

Those wavy cuts allow for the needed left bolt lugs movement, while the bolts right lug is being rotated while attached to the Op slide. One notch on that left rail IIRC allows clearance for the rim of the next casing as it feeds up.

I'll try to put the pictures you requested up Saturday for your comparison.

Charlie-Painter777