New A4 Day

[GaryWKeim]

New member here. I recently acquired the following 1903A4:

Serial#: 3421904
Barrel Date: 10-43
M73B1: #23298

It looks to have had an arsenal rebuild (blued -> park) and has a Keystone C-stock with the only mark being the inverted K in the well.

The scope appears to be rotated several degrees clockwise around the barrel so I need to figure out how/if I can accomplish that fix myself or need a smith... waiting for a Tipton Ultra Gun Vise.

Information

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[browningautorifle]

Nice, I always wanted to shoot one to see how they shot.

[ssgross]

nice rifle. welcome to the forum, neighbor! Can you post a pic of the underside of bolt handle recess in the stock? as well as the underside of the barrel beyond the forend?
You can remount your scope pretty easily. make sure you have a good set of screwdriver bits...only use one that fits absolutely perfectly. I would also recommend a torque wrench for re-tightening. 15 in*lbs is all it takes.

[GaryWKeim]

Can you post a pic of the underside of bolt handle recess in the stock? as well as the underside of the barrel beyond the forend?

Requested pics added to original post.

[ssgross]

Original barrels should have a punch mark on the underside of the barrel, about an inch from the muzzle, like in the photo below.

Original stocks have a very distinctive recess for the bolt handle, like in this thread...https://www.milsurps.com/showthread....l=1#post205733

I don't have one with it's original barrel and stock to compare.

[GaryWKeim]

Original barrels should have a punch mark on the underside of the barrel, about an inch from the muzzle, like in the photo below.

I took another pic of the underside of the barrel in natural light and it seems to show the remains of a punch mark.


Agreed on the bolt handle cut-out... I assume it was a DCM gun that was re-stocked back in the day.

I now have a rifle vice, bore laser and "Firearm Accurizing Torque Wrench" (The Fat Wrench) so I'll be taking a stab at re-installing the scope so that it lines up with the barrel. Iron sites are certainly more convenient.

[Neal Myers]

Your pics are a little too dark, but I think I can see the "problem" with the barrel. It looks like the Redfield mount is directly mounted on the barrel, not shimmed at the front. If so, you can order a set of shims from Brownell's. I don't know how a gunsmith does that & gets the correct height.
Neal

[ssgross]

I don't know how a gunsmith does that & gets the correct height.

the original mount has a sort of tab looking cut in the rear. some rough elevation can be adjusted by filing the rear in this area - then shims in the front if this isn't enough. I use small cut out beer cans.

[Jim Tarleton]

I don't know how a gunsmith does that & gets the correct height.
Neal

The base of the receiver and the top surface of the scope mount must be parallel for correct base installation. The gunsmith uses a known level surface to which he clamps the receiver, then uses a level and shims the base as required, if required, to ensure the top of the scope base is level with the base of the receiver. Clamping the receiver to the level surface typically requires a spacer (a machined block). Any good smith will do this when he mounts a scope.

I am not certain what you meant by "correct height".

I bought a specially machined block from Brownell's for the 1903 for this purpose. I tap the receivers, and/or barrel, using a Billy Best rig. I have D&T'ed numerous SHT receivers in this manner.

I have never had to spot temper the SHT receivers to drill them, but if required, I use an old soldering iron with a pointed tip, heated red-hot, and momentarily, maybe 3-4 seconds, touch it to the spot to be annealed. Never, and I mean never, use a torch to heat the spot to be annealed. You will ruin your receiver and make it very dangerous to shoot. An acetylene torch burns at about 4,400 to 6,000 degrees F, with a relatively broad flame, and such a flame will ruin your receiver in a matter of seconds, because the case-hardened surface of a SHT receiver is only a few thousandths of an inch thick.

I mention this because I saw where someone recommended the torch procedure on a forum, and he obviously has absolutely no knowledge of the subject. All information on the net is not correct, so beware and investigate what you read, including what I post.

I hope this helps.

[Riter]

Your pics are a little too dark, but I think I can see the "problem" with the barrel. It looks like the Redfield mount is directly mounted on the barrel, not shimmed at the front. If so, you can order a set of shims from Brownell's. I don't know how a gunsmith does that & gets the correct height.
Neal

Shoot it first to see if it needs shimming.
The scope base doesn't look right to me. I can't see the bevel that supposed to be behind the rear screws. It makes me think it's a replica.

You don't need a Tipton vise to work on it. I don't have one (I have several vises one of which is a 4" Wilton a couple that is older than myself). Just cut some pine to fit your vise and rubber band them onto the jaw. You need two of them. Pine being softer than walnut should not mar it. BTW, I made padded jaws with plywood and cork. Think of it as a squared shaped "C" with the arch of the "C" being several inches long and the legs skinny.

BTW, I also donated worn rubber farm boots so that the rubber could be salvaged for gluing onto metal or wood for rubber vise jaws. They're easy enough to make.