Help reloading 303

[r22r]

Hello guys,

since last spring i'm the proud owner of 2 SMLE and 2 NO4 MK1, I have been taking them to the field on a regular base ever since.

I started with brand new ammo (winchester) to get somes brass casings last year and I been reloading for several months ever since. I'm using a simple Lee Loader for the reloading, so each bullet I make should be fired only in the particular rifle that fired it in the first place (i marked the brasses with a black marker so its easy to tell them appart).

Here's what i'M using for my reloading right now:

WInchester casings
CCI primers
Sierra 180gr Spitzer .311 bullets
Hudgdon H4350

I choose the powder according to the lil chart that came with the lee loader and I'm using the lil spoon that came with it too.

Now I'm considering trying something else since those bullets are rather expensive and there a few other available at the store nearby, but they're not too good with advices so i'm asking for your help. Of course I know that i'll need a scale for the powder, that's already purchased


for the bullets, they have :

Hornady 3130 wich are 174gr, round nose, but .312 in dia (since the Sierras i'm using are .311 is it safe tu use those .312?) 32$

Speer 125gr. spitzer with cann (2213) .311 38$
Speer 180 gr. Round nose (2223) .311 39$


for the powder thay have HODGDON and IMR

What would you recommend for shotting at the range ?

any help would be greatly appreciated

sincerely

JP

Information

Warning: This is a relatively older thread This discussion is older than 360 days. Some information contained in it may no longer be current.

[Edward Horton]

r22r

I started out with a Lee Loader 40 years ago, and I bought another one to reload the .303 at the range. There is absolutely nothing wrong with a Lee loader.

Other thoughts.

Winchester cases would be my last choice for reloading and Prvi Partizan cases would be my first choice for reloading. The reason is simple the Prvi cases have a larger base diameter and the case walls are .010 thicker than ANY American made case and I consider the Prvi Partizan cases "military grade" or "heavy duty".



H-4350 is a good choice in powder, it is a slower burning powder and you have a 25 inch barrel to take advantage of the slower powders.
Hodgdon's H-4350 is made in Australia and is a very good powder and is sold under the ADI name AR2209 in Oz.

Any .311 or .312 bullet will work fine I prefer the .312 Hornadys myself.

Other than getting better cartridge cases, any of the components you chose will work fine. Once you get a set of scales you can try other powders but all your scoop loads are "light" to be safely scooped without over charging.

Below is good reloading information for your .303, it keeps the pressure at or below 43,000 CUP or 46,000 PSI (traducer method) and I highly recommend the load data.

Please note that the load data below shows 48 grains of H-4350 as a max compressed load at 43,800 CUP and well below the 46,000 max pressure listed for the Enfield Rifle.

[r22r]

Thanks you very very much for taking the time to respond to me. You gave some very valuable infos and I'll be sure to use them ! So there's no problem using .312 bullets in a lee enfield instead of the .311 ?

thansk again

JP

[Edward Horton]

Thanks you very very much for taking the time to respond to me. You gave some very valuable infos and I'll be sure to use them ! So there's no problem using .312 bullets in a lee enfield instead of the .311 ?

thansk again

JP

READ the Hodgdon's reloading data I posted above, the 150 grain Hornady bullet is .312 diameter that means it is OK to shoot in an Enfield Rifle.

[r22r]

I did read it but I just wanted to make sure. Thank you again for taking the time to help, its appreciated.

sincerely

JP

[Edward Horton]

r22r

The best advice I can give you is buy more than one reloading manual (the more the better) and start reading from the very front of the book.

You want to absorb as many facts from the beginning of the book as possible and keep reading as long as you reload.

What I really want to sink in is the load data I posted from Hodgdon's is 3,000 psi below the rated chamber pressure for the Enfield Rifle. It is also very close to what the pressures are for factory loaded ammunition. The older Enfield's are rated at a lower chamber pressure and the factory ammunition MUST be safe to fire in ALL Enfield's

Your loading data from the Lee Loader is actually lower than the suggested starting loads listed from the Hodgdon's data I posted. This is to make sure you are safe and the chamber pressures are MORE than safe.

You should also read up on the different chamber pressure measuring systems, CUP being the older and the PSI readings being newer.

50,000 CUP is approximately the same pressure as 60,000 PSI just like 60 mph is equal to 100 kph.

I can still remember reloading at my grandparents farm sitting at the kitchen table and hitting my Lee loader with my rubber hammer. My Grandfather told me to go out and reload in the cookhouse and that I wasn't going to blowup HIS house.

[AKA Hugh Uno]

I would start with IMR4895 or Varget and 150 grain bullets (NOT 174/180s) for best accuracy. Lee Enfields are not the easiest cartridge/rifle to get best accuracy from. I have never had that much luck with 3031.. my .02 anyway.

[JBS]

3031 and 4064 will produce excellent results in the 303 The rifle and barrel were designed for a flat base bullet in the 174 grain range and that is exactly where I have found top accuracy. .311 and .312 bullets work wonders. Fire form all your cases using the O-ring method found on this forum, then only neck size cases. If you do things right you can get cloverleaf groups from a lot of these old rifles. Good luck.

[GRF]

I would like to echo Mr Horton's last post.

Acquire numerous manuals, even / especially some of the older ones. There is a great deal of information available throughout. Go online; each of the major powder and bullet companies have data available online. In some cases loading data on a companies web site differs from their most recent manual. The reasons for the variations that exist between manuals is that each rifle is a unique situation unto itself, my pet load(s) may be poor performers in another rifle. I have one rifle which to shoot it's best must be sparkling clean and have a cold barrel, another which needs at least 15 rounds through it to group well, and which I don't clean until acuracy starts to drop off; 350 rounds plus.

Reloading is a way to get to know one's rifles in great detail, in my son's LE we can change point of impact dramatically (vertical and horizonatlly) with different reloads. Don't deprive yourself the joy of experimenting, and for safety's sake check every load you get off of a forum; even one as informed and reasonable as this, againast a reloading manual. GRF

[jmoore]

As above, get plenty of manuals, read them!, and as a suppliment, record each of your loads in some sort of organized way. The more data you have on your particular weapons, the better. Sharing of this PERSONAL info in detail, well, is not something I do.

However, here's a link to Hodgdon's load tables: most of the popular "US" powders are now under their umbrella.

Cartridge Loads - Hodgdon Reloading Data Center - data.hodgdon.com

BTW, there are several very knowledgable individuals (concerning reloading of military cartridges) who frequent this forum, not all of whom share the same opinions. So, sometimes discussions may get a bit "intense"! (not me!- I just make this up as I go...) ETA Heck, I don't even believe my OWN records until I check 'em against the manual- again!