My first M1 Carbine

[painter777]

I wonder if the Recoil Plate is the early style, with the canted rear wall.
They don't have as positive a lock down as the latter straight wall ones, Thus the change-over.
Also have see some with grime under the plates lip, that needed to be cleaned away for positive lock down/tighter fit.
And ........... Some just wear out.

Hopefully it's a easy fix.

Cheers,
Charlie-painter777

[Clash77]

Thanks for all the responses everyone I'm going to take the whole rifle down when I get some time, and I'll try to get some pictures that may help solve some of these mysteries about the recoil plate and stock

[painter777]

Thanks! Speaking of the rebuild, anyone have any ideas what the symbols next to the rebuild stamp might be? Looks to be a Δ and either a II or H

Looks like AN which would be Anniston Arsenal..

HTH,
Charlie-painter777

[painter777]

Clash,
While your looking it over. Look for the Stamped Proof P on your barrel. See if it has a Punch mark near it.
The way I understood, all the barrels used by NPM had the NPM Punch mark.
More than likely it would be stamped /hidden by your bayo band.

FWIW,
CH-P777

Example:

[rokwell]

I had another thought about the stock, not that this fully explains all the play around the recoil plate...but....maybe some (cleaning the stock under the plate probably will help as Charlie says)....could it also be that it's dry and over the years has shrunk back a bit from where its original 'edges' were? A couple years ago I bought a very nice Inland and the front handguard was a bit loose even after tightening the barrel band. I put it in the safe, and a couple months later got it out and noticed that the handguard was now TIGHT. I had done nothing to the carbine, the only explanation could be that the wood took on some additional moisture and expanded a bit. This even though I have one of those 'golden rod' de-humidifiers in the safe...

This is a pretty good article on 'wood movement' : Wood Movement...... from this page, and it's amazing to think about this:

"The rule of thumb is that if the board shows mostly flat grain on its face, allow for 1⁄4 inch total wood movement for every 12 inches across the grain. " (and now I'm thinking, how thick is the carbine stock, 2 or so inches?)

Also what are the markings in the sling slot of the stock, out of curiosity?

[Clash77]

The markings in the sling well are almost entirely illegible. All I can make out is the remnants of either an I or a T

[painter777]

Could the slingwell markings be.......

TRIMBLE
TN
?
BTW, Is the stock a Hi-wood?

Here's a poor picture of a Trimble TN made stock, but was made for a Saginaw, so pay no attention to the lower markings.

Look for Crud under the locking lip of the Recoil Plate. Your picture looks as though the Plate has shifted toward the right, muzzle pointed away.
It very well could be a worn down or issue with the plates wood seat as 1stFlabn mentioned

HTH,
Charlie-painter777
Williamston, MI

[Clash77]

It's a low wood stock. The only part of the marking that's visible is the first letter. But it does look more like a T than an I. There's no sign that it says TRIMBLE anywhere though.
I tried to take a picture, but the markings don't show up at all in the photo

[Clash77]

Finally had a nice day for a photo shoot so here's what I've got




Appears to have the NPM punch marks on all the major components except the trigger group






Stock markings look like an AN and a STD Prod rebuld marks. And possibly an IH Inland stock


Rebuild proof

Trimble handguard





Fixed my recoil plate too, just had a bunch of caked up crud underneath it

[shadycon]

Nice! Could that be HI sideways?