Springfield 1903 Mark 1 - Stampings and Original Finish Coloring?

[stevekaw]

As Rick mentioned earlier, a bolt for a Mark I should be marked, depending on serial number, J6, J5, WL2, WL5, or WL9 either on the top/bottom of the bolt handle or bottom of the bolt's safety lug. Also, the bolt handle should be curved, rather than straight.

[gregs]

Is this a collector rifle or just a shooter? From what you have seen, what is the value. Thanks.

[gregs]

browningautorifle,

What is yor deal? You posted two or three times and gave little feedback. You just confirmed what other people said. If I am bothering you with my questions, don't read my post or respond. I am a newbie trying to learn. Chill out!

[Rick the Librarian]

Greg, with all respect, I think a couple of us felt we were repeating the same things several times. I know that different people have different learning "curves".

[gregs]

browningautorifle,

You are a disgrace to the forum. You never told me this rifle was just a shooter. No one did. We are trying to figure what I have.
You have done nothing but get irritated that I am not an expert like you and trying to ask questions. Happy Thanksgiving *******.

[John Wyatt]

Now...for the last time from me...this is NOT a shooter. It's a Mk 1 and they're too old. It's a mixed bag of parts. It's NOT a collector. It's an accumulation of parts.

It's a mere representation of the rifle, in not too bad shape.

Just curious why you think a Mk 1 rifle should not be shot. I am aware of the serial number ranges of brittle receivers from SA and RIA, but Mk 1's are above the cutoff number for SA produced receivers. This is the first time I've heard it's not safe to shoot a Mk 1.

[gregs]

John Wyatt,

Be careful, don't ask browningautorifle too many questions on this forum, he will get irritated. Someone else will answer your question and he will agree with what they said.

Just for the record, I am done with browningautorifle unless he balls up and replies with another dumb ignorant reply. Just getting my frustration out. I was hoping I would find great feedback and help and did from everyone else. Thanks to you guys and milsurp. Hope everyone is having a great holiday. Thanks again for all of the help. I am just a newbie trying to learn about the Springfield 1903.

[Rick the Librarian]

Just curious why you think a Mk 1 rifle should not be shot. I am aware of the serial number ranges of brittle receivers from SA and RIA, but Mk 1's are above the cutoff number for SA produced receivers. This is the first time I've heard it's not safe to shoot a Mk 1.

Unless a Mark I is a pristine rifle, with all the parts, all Mark Is were made well above the "cutoff" and shooting is not a problem.

GregS, I think part of the problem, was you appeared to be asking the same questions, over and over again, even though I feel we provided the answers several times over in great detail.

[gregs]

Rick the Librarian,

I think the problem is that I do not understand all of the rifle parts and pieces that you guys are referring to. I get confused and ask questions. Thanks for your time and being patient with me. I will discuss this further with some forum members that have reached out to me to help me understand. This way certain people don't get irritated. Thanks again for you time and help.

[supercub]

I have a couple Mark 1's, one a rebuild, one an original 10587xx. Your's has been been reparkerized. The bolt may or may not be original to the gun, but appears to be a straight handle. The only way to determine if it's a double heat treated is by looking at the bottom of the handle root or on the safety lug, probably the underside. The safety lug is that lug sticking out of the middel of the bolt about halfway down. Your cut off switch is correct, but I don't think you have the correct cut-off spindle. The cut-off spindle is what the cut off switch rotates on and the head is toward the back. You can tell if it's the correct spindle as it will look like a screw head with a slot. If not, it's a regular spindle. Your stock is correct or appears to be from what your pictures show. You don't show anything regarding the special trigger in your pictures. You could pull the bolt and look down at it from the top and tell if it had the right sear with the prawl as it shows. That wouldn't tell you if the trigger itself is correct, you would have to pull the trigger guard off to see if it had the notch in the back of the trigger toward the top. From all indications that you have presented, you have a decent example of a Mark 1. The bones are there to make it right but you would have to spend a few bucks to get it there and that may take some time. Triggers and spindles show up but can be competitive. Depending on the barrel condition, you have a very nice shooter with potential, however it will never be a "collector" such as an original.

Good luck

Kurt