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M-N proof markings and questions
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01-13-2010 09:07 PM
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I'd start out at 50 meters or so to see how and where it groups. Mine generally are pretty close to center most of the time. Then take it out to 100 meters/yards and try again. The lowest sight setting is 100 meters, so it should hit about center.
Some tend to shoot high, so a common technique is to raise the front sight post by slipping a piece of tubing over it and trimming it until accurate. Keep in mind, that the type of ammo you use will affect point of impact.
I wouldn't really recommend drifting the front sight unless there are major problems as it's staked in place and moving it could result it it becoming too loose and moving when the rifle is fired. For a Soviet
Mosin, I recommend adjusting your point of aim to get the rifle on bulls eye.
The Mosin is basically a main battle rifle for peasants who don't shoot too accurately, so it was never really meant to be accurized like an AR/M1
, etc rifle is. Now, if you want to get a Mosin rifle that will have sight parts that can be drifted, I recommend getting a Finn M27, M28, M39 etc. Those are made for marksmen and are much more accurate than Soviet rifles. Please just don't cut 'em up.
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Originally Posted by
mac1911
OK so I been up late a few nights going over the seemingly endless amounts of marks on my MN

. I found the accuracy marks and the POA proof marks.
Now what I cant find is how or what type of test did they preform.
What was the acceptable accuracy test. Yardage, target size, grouping?
What was the point of aim test, did the hold on center, 6 Oclock
Was there a method to "zero" the gun.
I have another newbie telling me his manual says they where zero'd @ 300 meters.
What he was describeing sounded more like the balistics of the bullet flight.
What he was saying sounded more like the manual says the bullet crosses the barrels horizontal line @ 300 meters

Hi mac1911! The Mosin was born for the battle and not for the precision shooting; that must be always remembered. Is a rifle which shoots better on the mid-long distances (i.e. 200 or 300 yards) and that also because often it tends to shoot high. It is not an easy rifle to shoot. Setting it you have to consider which sort of ammo are you shooting, especially when you re-load your ammo – different bullets weight and/or different quantity of powder change the point of impact. Anyway, please, don’t touch the front sight! Again, what written by Homer2 is also right. So now have a nice time shooting and discovering your Mosin!
Blackcat
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I am not so worried about my particular gun. What I am looking for is when the russians where building these things and "poof" marking them.
What was the process and specs in order to get the accuracy acceptance proof mark? I read somewhere @ one time that the sks and aks where said to be military acceptable when the rifle could shoot ten rounds @ 200m and be with in a 16" circle.
As far as my sights are concerened. I may repalce the rear sight with a MOJO peep sight
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still have not found the "proof mark acceptance specs" ? I am looking for info on the proof marks.
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What are "accuracy marks"?
I guess I never sat down and tried to figure out what all that stuff was.
A "K" is a point of aim proof.
I have three, one of which is an ex-sniper so I would assume it would have the best "accuracy mark" but like I said, I don't know where to look.
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Originally Posted by
Aragorn243
What are "accuracy marks"?
I guess I never sat down and tried to figure out what all that stuff was.
A "K" is a point of aim proof.
I have three, one of which is an ex-sniper so I would assume it would have the best "accuracy mark" but like I said, I don't know where to look.
Depending on the year of the ex-sniper the accuracy proof would be a circle inside a circle (0) or on early pre-war snipers two circles 00.
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yes I have the 00, ok so now WHAT was the test to get the proof mark?
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