Enfield Sniper

[tower06]

Might I be so bold as to suggest Tower06 that there are only a few non committal answers to your main question because making up even a half decent No4T isn't just a case of getting yourself a No4T, the pads, a bracket and a scope, then screwing the lot together. If you are hell bent on doing it, might i be so bold as to suggest that you get yourself the whole set of bits and when you've done it, maybe I could explain the technical and optical problems that you WILL face.

None are insurmountable but the unwary can soon fall into a trap that turns into a chasm. And one that you can get into, past the point of no return VERY quickly and end up with a pile of tat.

But you can do it and end up with a perfectly useable, reliable and good repro No4T, albeit a fake.

You get the bits and we'll all walk slowly through it

I think that maybe I was misunderstood in my original post. The rifle I picked up is a original sniper #AT4242. My question is about refurbing it or leaving it as it is. It came w/o the pads mount or scope. I do have repro pads for it however and am going to try to find the mount and scope for it.

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[Alan de Enfield]

I think that maybe I was misunderstood in my original post. The rifle I picked up is a original sniper #AT4242. My question is about refurbing it or leaving it as it is. It came w/o the pads mount or scope. I do have repro pads for it however and am going to try to find the mount and scope for it.

I think that what Peter was getting at is that the mounting of the pads and bracket and getting the whole lot central / aquare is the hard bit. Heres is part of a an old post of Peters :

..................Then the process of attaching the unfinished front pad to the rifle commenced. After this was firmly attached/soft soldered/screwed, a shell mill cutter would mill the front mounting spigot and bracket mating surface to an EXACT depth so that the round bracket mating surface – that’s the circular surface to the right and surrounding the actual spigot - is now at an exact distance from an imaginary line along the centre of the bore. The tool checkers checked the accuracy of these operations every evening during a short floating break period
You can now see that while the pad on your rifle is fixed to the body, it is actually aligned with great accuracy to the exact centre line of the bore ….., regardless of its relation to the body. This is the reason why that you can, if you are silly, desperate or just unwise, transfer a front pad to another rifle ….., and the centres of the screws align and fit, it won’t necessarily be either square on or axially correct for the rifle. The same goes for the bracket…………….

[tower06]

I think that what Peter was getting at is that the mounting of the pads and bracket and getting the whole lot central / aquare is the hard bit. Heres is part of a an old post of Peters :

..................Then the process of attaching the unfinished front pad to the rifle commenced. After this was firmly attached/soft soldered/screwed, a shell mill cutter would mill the front mounting spigot and bracket mating surface to an EXACT depth so that the round bracket mating surface – that’s the circular surface to the right and surrounding the actual spigot - is now at an exact distance from an imaginary line along the centre of the bore. The tool checkers checked the accuracy of these operations every evening during a short floating break period
You can now see that while the pad on your rifle is fixed to the body, it is actually aligned with great accuracy to the exact centre line of the bore ….., regardless of its relation to the body. This is the reason why that you can, if you are silly, desperate or just unwise, transfer a front pad to another rifle ….., and the centres of the screws align and fit, it won’t necessarily be either square on or axially correct for the rifle. The same goes for the bracket…………….

My apologies for the mistake. It sounded like it was thought I was making a replica sniper. I'm actually trying to restore/refurb (whatever term you like) to close to original condition as possible.

[Surpmil]

My apologies for the mistake. It sounded like it was thought I was making a replica sniper. I'm actually trying to restore/refurb (whatever term you like) to close to original condition as possible.

I was wondering about that too when you said it was a No4(T), but guessed you had one with the pads removed, hence my last post.

To Luckydog, with refitted pads you have some hope of getting a functional rifle. It will not be exactly collimated of course, but as close as one can get without replicating the original manufacturing process.

It would be interesting to know if the Israelis for example machined the pads after fitting to the rifle. Probably they did not, given the finished Israeli pads that turn up. Presumably also they were able to achieve a satisfactory result as they are usually quite practical about their weapons, aren't they?

[Alan de Enfield]

I dont believe there is any misunderstanding :

You have a 4T without pads
You have pads
You want to fit the pads to the 4T without pads.

The information from Peter & others is just a warning that you do not just screw the pads on and they fit and the scope will collimate.

[tower06]

I dont believe there is any misunderstanding :

You have a 4T without pads
You have pads
You want to fit the pads to the 4T without pads.

The information from Peter & others is just a warning that you do not just screw the pads on and they fit and the scope will collimate.

Thanks. I appreciate the info. I plan on taking my time with the project, and hopefully locating as much in the way or original period mounting hardware as possible.

[Old Lancer]

if anyones interested i have just built a replica no4 sniper for surplus sniper service rifle competition here in western Australia, i used a no4 mk1/2 ftr'd 1954 numrich repro pads and mount and a weaver k2.5 scope, repro covers from a guy in the uk and a repro 1942 milsco knox sling, i have photos but am new to the site and have no idea how to attatch them. i know its not a real no4t but its a faithfull reproduction as per the rules of the ssaa here in australia and all up including the rifle it stands at about $1000au which by my reckoning is about a quarter of the price of a genuine item(if i could find one!)
info on posting pics would be helpful as i'm a computer duffer!!!!: