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01-16-2010 02:42 AM
# ADS
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I've got a No 4 mk2 centre bedded by parker hale in a morticed timber block, exactly as described in that canadian manual, in .303, and it is by far the best shooting .303 I've ever had. The group doesn't move at all as the barrel heats up.
I've bedded a couple of no4 mk1's (.303) like this in glass as described by that manual and have had excellent results.
The only reason I don't do it like that anymore is in order to maintain and restore the originality of rifles I play with, AND I keep hearing from Peter Laidler
in posts that military bedding gives the best results, so I'll keep working on it until I can get it right and make it sing PROPERLY.
Having said that, the glass method, and/or centre bedding is fast and very effective (for .303)if you follow that manual precisely... whether or not it's best???
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Try it. If it doesn't work, change it back. Most importantly, you MUST tell us how it worked out!
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I am following the stage's 1-2-3 as per http://photos.imageevent.com/badgerd...s/Marksman.pdf to my best ability. It will be spring by the time I get this finished
Thanks for the replies
Cheers, Jack
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Contributing Member
I have best results by following Peters advices on my two Enfileds ( No.4MKI*) but i dont use a wooden block in the reinforced section of forend i used a cork layer. And made no center barrel bedding.
Regards
Gunner
Regards Ulrich
Nothing is impossible until you've tried it !
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Banned
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Hi Edward Horton, I think your see-saw illustration in the best way yet I've seen to visualize the bedding set up. While I was doing the last couple of no4's and 1's I bedded, that concept sort of dawnwed on me, but you'd be 100 miles ahead to go into the job thinking of that see-saw and an idea of the amount intended final upward pressure at the muzzle, instead of "bed here, here and have upward pressure here".
Thanks for a great post illustrating "HOW".
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