Cleaning up after using corrosive ammo

[Randy A]

Fired brass, looks good still fairly clean and bright. Is it any good to reload?

[Griff Murphey]

Yes, but it should be deprimed (or sized and deprimed) and run through the dishwasher to remove the chlorate salts from the fired cases. And you will have to remove the crimp, if USGI.

Just as an aside, I always figured successive rounds down a corrosive-contaminated bore would seal the salts that had been left by previous rounds under a new coat of copper fouling. So I don't see using soapy water or anything else as a total solution. Ideally I would use the water first, then Hoppes or Gunslick or whatever to remove copper fouling, then dry the bore, RE-clean with water, then apply a light coat of preservative oil or solvent. I suspect the old USGI adage about cleaning the rifle for each of three days after firing was due to the fact that the salts don't all just jump out at the first sight of water.

Will I fire corrosive in a bolt rifle? No problem! Will I fire it in a nice Garand or other gas gun? No!

[jmoore]

Eh, I fired nothing but berdan "corrosive" primed ammo from my CQC Garand at the Fort Benning matches for three years, and am STILL using that set-up for shooting standing at 200yd ten years later. Bore's getting a bit worn(!), but it still puts them easily in the black if the nut pulling the trigger does his part. Just cleaned it well, and checked it regularly, no dramas. Water first , or old GI bore cleaner, never really got carried away with the details. Quit shooting the "corrosive" primed stuff only when I burned through all I had.

It was nice not having to worry about leave all that berdan primed brass behind, though!

[emmagee1917]

...that was my thinking. First treatment at the range for any exposed residue , then a complete cleaning to remove most of the salts , powder , copper , etc , then a final "wash" to take care of any missed salts , then dry and oil.
Chris

[Pattern14]

Pattern14, look about 4/5 down the auction page. The cleaning instructions are posted inside the case!

Hey Emri,
Any idea what that Rigby "Special Cleaning Fluid" was?

George (Pattern14)

[powdermonkey72]

i just use Windex, spray a HEAP into the breech, run a bore snake thru when its running out the muzzle, then clean normally. Or boiling water, solder a case with the primer pocket drilled and opened right out onto some copper pipe 6-8' long,(roughly same OD) slight s bend so it goes into the breech, slide case into the chamber,hold her up with a funnel taped to the end, and bobs your complicated uncle. Its a good set up,bit of muckin about. I use Tetra gun solvent on the nagant, it seems to be alot rawer than No9, Hoppes smells perdy.
hope it was some help Cheers Adam

[Emri]

Hey Emri,
Any idea what that Rigby "Special Cleaning Fluid" was?

George (Pattern14)

What the cleaning fluid is. I'd be sure it contained ammonia. I do have a formula that Lt. Townsend Whelen suggested for rifle cleaning. It is in a 1918 outdoor sportsman handbook. I don't think I would want to use it; he gives instructions to have your druggist mix it up (the ingredients sound pretty nasty) and specifies what type bottle to put it in with what type of stopper. He also said it was good for about 2 weeks!!

FWIW,

Emri

[Emri]

Ok, that brings up another question, what should a guy do with old brass that had these primers? I've got large quantities of brass as old as FA 20, and a bunch of FA 1929 NM. I had thought of reloading it but have to ask if that is a good idea or not? That would be a bit of a bummer, the 29 NM is kinda neat, got stars all over it, you know "bling".

The NRA has warned for a long time not to shoot U.S. military ammo (or use brass) that was made before WWII. The brass is hard and brittle as someone else posted. Neck splits are no big deal, just dirty up the chamber, but a body split is more serious and if a body split goes into the web you are in for a nasty supprise.

I would not shoot or re-load it is it were mine.

FWIW,

Emri