Questions on No 5 MK 1 authenticity

[Aragorn243]

I took the rifle apart today to look it over. The metal on the barrel and the receiver is in great shape. May need at some point to seek a replacement trigger guard and front barrel band. They are in rough shape for some reason or another.

In comparing this rifle to others on Gunbroker and other websites, I don't think it was scrubbed of markings anymore. The barrel under the handguard has all the proofs, and I even found another electro penciled serial number that matches all the others under there on the barrel. I think it was just so faintly etched on the receiver that it wore off. There is no Isapore screw in the forestock Under different lighting sources it appears to be also marked (ROF) (F) but it is very faint. It does have one BSA part in the bold assembly. Serial number placement matches many I've seen. The serial number on the stock band is placed instead of the "England" stamp on some.

The trigger guard looks fine when the rifle is assembled, it's only when it's apart that you can see the deep pitting on the side where it touches the stock. Not enough to destroy it's integrity so it isn't a real big deal. The barrel band I would like to replace though.

[bradtx]

Aragorn243, The Fazakerley No.5s often have a smattering of BSA-Shirley (M47C) parts, most common is the flash cone. Most of the No.5s in the US are from the Pacific Rim and some pitting is to be expected. You may also find that some parts, usually the trigger guard assy. and the butt stock bolt are No.4 parts. Nothing to worry about as production availability won over design.

spinecracker, If you are able to crunch the numbers for just one L-E variant, that Mk.1/3 would be a goodie.

Brad

[spinecracker]

Brad, if I manage to sell the 1941 Long Branch, then I might just do that. The wife can't complain (too much) as I have already sold off almost everything else that I can except for a spare kidney, and Ebay takes offence at organ trafficking....lol

[Aragorn243]

Here are some photos:

Left side of rifle:


Right side:


Left receiver, you can just make out "No" in this I believe. The markings are very faint:


Closer, not sure if this shows anything other than partial serial number. Full serial number is clearly visible to naked eye:


This is the serial # on the end of the stock and also showing the poor condition of the front barrel band. Barrel band has a fabric under it which I would assume was to tighten it up. I suspect it also attracted moisture which rusted the band. Other than the trigger assembly where it contacts the stock, it is the only rust on the rifle. Under the stock it is in great shape.


Bolt with serial #, rear sight is slightly malformed, I'm wondering if a few careful taps will put it back into shape or break it. I don't want the second obviously:


Right side again, correction to above statement about rust. The metal band at the rear of the stock is pitted as well. I doubt this can be replaced, anyone know?


And the magazine:


The stock is very dark and has a shiny shellac or varnish on it but is otherwise in pretty good condition. A few dings here and there but all in all not bad, no major dents or cracks. I haven't cleaned the metal yet so there is some residue of grease on it. Bore cleaned out brilliant bright with no pitting.

The stock isn't bad looking the way it is but I would like it to be the way it's supposed to be. This may be an arsenal refinish, I don't know. Any suggestions on leaving it alone or removing it would be appreciated. As of now, unless there's some compelling reason to do otherwise, I'm probably going to strip it and put on a BLO finish.

The sling has no markings that I can find but appears to be correct.

The final purchase price was $219 so I'm thinking I did pretty good.

[Steve H. in N.Y.]

You got a good deal on a nice rifle. The front sight/flash suppressor has to be removed to change the handguard ring. I've done this twice recently. The first required only a propane torch but the second one needed the torch and a hydraulic press. If I had to do it again I'd consider cutting the bottom of the new ring and welding it once it was in place around the barrel. Not quite correct, but...

[Aragorn243]

The handguard ring comes right off of this one. It expands once you take the screw out. Maybe because it's too thin? It was a tight fit but it did come off.

It is definately a No 5 MK 1 ROF (F) rifle. I cleaned the metal off and can read that clearly now. I still can't make out the date but appears to be 2-46 as 2-43 would make no sense for this rifle. I may try a pencil rubbing but something tells me that isn't going to work.

[finloq]

Is the aperature on the sight bent or is it just a camera angle? The stock may just be soaked in cosmoline. You might try some Citristrip on the stock before completely striping it, in case there is just a light shellac coating over the natural wood color. Citristrip will not bleach the wood under whatever is over it. Great deal by the way.

[Steve H. in N.Y.]

"The handguard ring comes right off of this one."

Sorry, thought you meant a pitted retaining ring that secures the rear of the handguard, not the front band.

[Aragorn243]

finlog,

The aperture of the sight is bent. It looks like it took a direct hit from the top left side. The sight itself is not bent at all so the aperture took all the abuse. The elevating part of the sight works fine. I'm wondering if the metal is soft enough to tap it back into shape or if it is the type that is brittle and will break if trying to reform it. I've seen them for sale but would prefer saving the $27 or so to replace it. I don't know how much it would affect accuracy, it's a mighty big hole, probably for low light conditions.

This stuff almost looks like varnish rather than shellac. I haven't touched it yet to see how thick it is but I may try the citristip in a small out of the way area. I like the dark color.

Steve,

No that ring is in good shape, thank goodness. I don't want to mess with taking the flash suppressor off. I'm not the best with parts names so sorry for any confusion.

[jmoore]

I'm about 50/50 at straightening bent aperatures. They're pretty soft, but if it's already started to crack then straightening operations will usually finish the job. Usually though, even the cracked ones can be made so that the fracture line doesn't show.

The scary part is that it's best to be aggressive when straightening. One or two heavy (but not TOO heavy) blows is better than trying to speak up on the repair w/ a series of light taps!

Heat may be advised, esp. if you're timid, but I've done plenty either way (cool or hot) and haven't seen any change in the success rate. Basically, if you can detect the beginnings of a crack before you start, it's gonna finish up under load.

Yours doesn't look too bad. I wouldn't worry about it if it were mine, but it DOES look repairable.