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Thread: No 1 MK 3 rebuild, possible bedding issue

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  1. #31
    Legacy Member Bruce_in_Oz's Avatar
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    My 2 bob's worth:

    The problem is that the rifles were regulated to the ammo, not the other way around. As soon as you change from MkVII ball with its flat base and little aluminium filler plug, AND a cordite load, all bets are off downrange. The North American manufactured WW2 and post MkVII presents some challenges but if topped of with the correct bullet these are not insurmountable.

    Thus we are presented with a couple of challenges. Firstly; how much decent MkVII ball has anyone seen lately, and secondly; if we fall upon a stash of Kynoch or similar, and then don't clean our nice barrels properly, they will "demise" rapidly.

    The factors that change when you feed it anything other than MkVII include: bullet jump, pressure curve, muzzle velocity trajectory and all those interesting multi-mode barrel vibrations.

    Bullets seated to a shorter overall cartridge length may cause feeding "issues" as well.

    Try to stick to flat-based projectiles in the 174-180 grain range. Avoid boat-tails like the plague to minimise gas-cutting at the throat. Because of the way it upsets as it enters the throat, the open-based MkVII ball projectile provides a better gas seal than ANY conventionally-jacketed "sporting" projectile.

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  3. #32
    Advisory Panel smellie's Avatar
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    I find that the old rifles can be made to shoot pretty much to POA if you use the quicker American powders. They do seem to come closer to the pressure curve of Cordite MDT than do slower powders.

    I have had some success with loading the .303 but I do not use a powder any slower than 4895.

    My test load for the .303 I have given out many times. It uses a Sierra 180 Pro-Hunter flatbase bullet sated to the OAL of a Mark VII Ball round. Powder is 37 to 38 grains of 4895, depending on the preference of the rifle. Generally, this shoots very accurately but only clocks 2250, so is a bit slow for Milspec shooting. I have also had very good shooting with the Hornady flatbase 150 Spire Point with 40 grains of 4064: again, just a bit mild but very accurate..... and definitely not Milspec.

    I have looked at all the photos and read most of the posts. It seems to me that this rifle has a name now. She is a Dangerous Old Rifle (Australianicon). "Dora" sounds as if it must be her name! She is a sweetie for sure!

    Hope some of this might help.

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  5. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by smellie View Post
    I find that the old rifles can be made to shoot pretty much to POA if you use the quicker American powders. They do seem to come closer to the pressure curve of Cordite MDT than do slower powders.

    I have had some success with loading the .303 but I do not use a powder any slower than 4895.

    My test load for the .303 I have given out many times. It uses a Sierra 180 Pro-Hunter flatbase bullet sated to the OAL of a Mark VII Ball round. Powder is 37 to 38 grains of 4895, depending on the preference of the rifle. Generally, this shoots very accurately but only clocks 2250, so is a bit slow for Milspec shooting. I have also had very good shooting with the Hornady flatbase 150 Spire Point with 40 grains of 4064: again, just a bit mild but very accurate..... and definitely not Milspec.

    I have looked at all the photos and read most of the posts. It seems to me that this rifle has a name now. She is a Dangerous Old Rifle (Australianicon). "Dora" sounds as if it must be her name! She is a sweetie for sure!

    Hope some of this might help.
    Well I tested the loads with 2520 and the Sierra 180 Pro Hunters. I had previously always used WW760 and the Pro Hunters which was my go-to load in the past. The 2520 was recommended as a change and did not let me down. Groups were very consistent and tight. In the course of firing several groups quickly, POI did not change as the rifle heated up.

    However, POI is exactly the same as with Privi ammo. Adjusting the center band made no difference.

    I think my bedding is good and correct. I took my time and followed the manuals carefully.

    I think my Barrel is accurate.

    For now the rifle is telling me to stop monkeying around at 25 yards (they do talk to me you know). Possibly I will come back to the forestock at a later date and investigate further adjustment shims to the top of the draws, experimenting with differing pressures on the barrel tip.

    I think I just need to make a new front sight and start shooting the rifle.

    Dora, I love it. It fits her, it's not Matilda, and it has meaning.

    I will get some close up pictures and post another thread to show the numbers on the receiver to get a positive ID on her.

    Thank you all so much for your help and suggestions.

    DAve

    I think I just need to make a new front sight and start shooting the rifle.

  6. #34
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    Not that I have anything to contribute to this thread, but I simply thought about mentioning how I looooove this thread. Candy for my neurons.

    I recently have been shooting some Canadianicon military .303 ammo (circa 1940's) and it's fun to see how different it behaves compared to my (beginner) reload, or to modern commercial ammo.

    Lou

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    Quote Originally Posted by louthepou View Post
    Not that I have anything to contribute to this thread, but I simply thought about mentioning how I looooove this thread. Candy for my neurons.

    Lou
    There are some wonderfully knowledgeable people here who are gracious enough to share that knowledge. We are truly fortunate to have access to them.

    Thank you all,

    DAve

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