Proper Fitment of No4Mk1(T) CheekRest

[JohnnyCobra]

I have a formerly bubba'd No4Mk1(T) that I replaced all the wood on (Long Butt/ all walnut), and rear sight, cleaned up and has become a decent shooter.

I have a spare Normal buttstock as well, S&K No Gunsmithing mount, Weaver K4 60b scope, and a Numrich/Gunparts repro cheek rest.

I am fairly unhappy with the cheekrest, as I have owned a T before and the cheekrest is not an exact repro. also, it is teak - so it doesn't match too well. But the main quesiton I have is, the cheek rest does not fit "flush in the front" due to the stock having a hump in it. I cannot move the rest all the way forward on a normal or long butt, because it puts the rest too far forward.

Did the T stocks have the hump planed off, or is the inside of the rest fitted to the hump (This seems like an unlikely thing).

I was hoping to not modify original replacement wood too much, and since the rifle is just an approximation of a T, I was ok with the inconsitencies, but this is frustrating. Any ideas?

Information

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[Skippy]

Lol, "fitment," I think the word you're looking for is "fitting."

Other than that I can offer nothing constructive

[Badger]

Check the Technical Articles for Milsurp Collectors and Re-loaders (click here)

There's a library entry titled Blueprints and Specifications for the Enfield No.4 Mk1(T) Sniper Rifle (click here)

Courtesy of "mudpuppy" with additional feedback from "Cantom", there's MOD Pattern Room blueprints from the 1940/50's for the scope mount, pads, pad screws, thumb screws and cheekpiece, plus instructions on how to properly mount the cheekpiece.

Hope it helps...

Regards,
Badger

[Cantom]

I have a formerly bubba'd No4Mk1(T) that I replaced all the wood on (Long Butt/ all walnut), and rear sight, cleaned up and has become a decent shooter.

I have a spare Normal buttstock as well, S&K No Gunsmithing mount, Weaver K4 60b scope, and a Numrich/Gunparts repro cheek rest.

I am fairly unhappy with the cheekrest, as I have owned a T before and the cheekrest is not an exact repro. also, it is teak - so it doesn't match too well. But the main quesiton I have is, the cheek rest does not fit "flush in the front" due to the stock having a hump in it. I cannot move the rest all the way forward on a normal or long butt, because it puts the rest too far forward.

Did the T stocks have the hump planed off, or is the inside of the rest fitted to the hump (This seems like an unlikely thing).

I was hoping to not modify original replacement wood too much, and since the rifle is just an approximation of a T, I was ok with the inconsitencies, but this is frustrating. Any ideas?

You need to do some fitting on the cheekrest. I've done it several times with repros, with the help of my wife.
Something like a sanding drum kit and some crayon or something similar will help. You rub the crayon along both sides of the butt and then slide the cheekrest back and forth along the buttstock in the right place and angle. The crayon will show where you need to carefully remove some wood with the sanding drums. A little at a time...vary which diameter sanding drum by what is close the the radius you need...

It should sit down flush when you're done. Don't drill the holes and try to draw it down unless it sits flush first, you may crack it. You don't remove anything from the buttstock.

[JohnnyCobra]

You need to do some fitting on the cheekrest. I've done it several times with repros, with the help of my wife.
Something like a sanding drum kit and some crayon or something similar will help. You rub the crayon along both sides of the butt and then slide the cheekrest back and forth along the buttstock in the right place and angle. The crayon will show where you need to carefully remove some wood with the sanding drums. A little at a time...vary which diameter sanding drum by what is close the the radius you need...

It should sit down flush when you're done. Don't drill the holes and try to draw it down unless it sits flush first, you may crack it. You don't remove anything from the buttstock.

Thanks all!
I checked out the links above and after the clarification here on where the crayon goes, whittled this rest down and put it all together.

I need to restain the rest, locktite the scope mount and rings, and test it out, but the scope height and cheek rest all give a nice eye relief and is comfortable.

I did mount the scope with the turrets forward of both rings, the rear of the scope's eyepiece is ~1.5" behind the cocking piece, so it sits ok by me.

A lot of the scope setups I have seen "look" to be WAY high and WAY too close to the eye.

Will post pics sometime I hope.

[Cantom]

Thanks all!
I checked out the links above and after the clarification here on where the crayon goes, whittled this rest down and put it all together.

I need to restain the rest, locktite the scope mount and rings, and test it out, but the scope height and cheek rest all give a nice eye relief and is comfortable.

I did mount the scope with the turrets forward of both rings, the rear of the scope's eyepiece is ~1.5" behind the cocking piece, so it sits ok by me.

A lot of the scope setups I have seen "look" to be WAY high and WAY too close to the eye.

Will post pics sometime I hope.

Yeah, pics would be good!

[JohnnyCobra]

Bubba strikes again!
OK I still have the rear sight and a spare buttstock, so I guess it's not THAT Bubba'd.

[NavyShooter]

Well,

I just picked up a cheekrest from Fultons, along with a few other bits in support of a long-term project that's been on the backburner. Not a bad price, $30 pounds, and they have a whack more of 'em if anyone wants one.

NS