Remove and Replace Stock Escutcheon

[G26ster]

I need to replace the stock escutcheon and screw on a M1 stock I bought and refinished. The escutcheon appears to be stripped, as the screw works well on other stock escutcheons. I believe I can remove the escutcheon by partially treading the screw into it, and tapping it out. However, I am unsure as to how to fully seat the new escutcheon. Any helpful hints, or things to be careful of, will be appreciated as I do not want to damage this stock. Thanks.

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[frankderrico]

Soak some oil around it before you tap it out. Be carful not to chip the wood (you have seen some of those I'm sure). Try and line up the splines of new one with the splines of the one you removed. Push it in then tap carefully. it should bottom out were the other one did. There is a seller on E-Bay that makes very good replacements with the screws, they sell them on a buy it now. I have used them and have been happy. HTH and good luck.....Frank

[G26ster]

Soak some oil around it before you tap it out. Be carful not to chip the wood (you have seen some of those I'm sure). Try and line up the splines of new one with the splines of the one you removed. Push it in then tap carefully. it should bottom out were the other one did. There is a seller on E-Bay that makes very good replacements with the screws, they sell them on a buy it now. I have used them and have been happy. HTH and good luck.....Frank

Thanks Frank. I had already ordered a new screw and escutcheon from Numrich. Hopefully the old one will come out without damaging the wood and the new one will line up properly. Would Kroil be good to use, even though it's not metal to metal, or just use any oil, even BLO?

[frankderrico]

G26ster,

I don't think the BLO would help. Some penetrating oil to get it sliding is what I have used. Kroil should work. You just want it to loosen its grip some. The new screw and nut will make the end of the project easy. It's getting the old nut out that's the tough part. You'll get it done O.K. I'm sure. Got to be easier than flying a chopper.....Frank

[G26ster]

Thanks again Frank. Yeah, not damaging the stock (Rock-ola Type II) is my main concern so I'll go slow and easy. BTW, flying a helicopter is as easy as riding a bike. Kids can do it Larry

[LeagleEagle]

I've removed a couple of stock escutcheons by using a good sized punch, placing it against the top of the escutcheon and gently tapping the punch with a hammer.

[ChipS]

If you value the stock be VERY careful. IMHO, oil or not, the chances are 50/50 you will chip out the opening. Over time, the wood swells or is crushed in normal service to overlap the edge of the escutcheon nut. If you look closely you can see this on most stocks. If you do not shave or trim this overhang back before you tap out the nut you will split out the wood. If you leave ANY overhang you will chip out the wood around the opening - period. This will happen and don't let anyone tell you it won't. Shave it carefully with a very sharp pointed hobby knife and finish it with rolled up fine grit sandpaper but do not leave ANY overhang, and I mean all the way down to the face of the nut. I am not saying make the escutcheon opening bigger than it was originally - just make it as big. All that being said, when you chip it out your stock save the sliver and superglue it back on. Personally, I would not remove the escutcheon on a collector grade stock unless it was absolutely necessary to keep the carbine held together. HTH. Semper Fi.

[G26ster]

If you value the stock be VERY careful. IMHO, oil or not, the chances are 50/50 you will chip out the opening. Over time, the wood swells or is crushed in normal service to overlap the edge of the escutcheon nut. If you look closely you can see this on most stocks. If you do not shave or trim this overhang back before you tap out the nut you will split out the wood. If you leave ANY overhang you will chip out the wood around the opening - period. This will happen and don't let anyone tell you it won't. Shave it carefully with a very sharp pointed hobby knife and finish it with rolled up fine grit sandpaper but do not leave ANY overhang, and I mean all the way down to the face of the nut. I am not saying make the escutcheon opening bigger than it was originally - just make it as big. All that being said, when you chip it out your stock save the sliver and superglue it back on. Personally, I would not remove the escutcheon on a collector grade stock unless it was absolutely necessary to keep the carbine held together. HTH. Semper Fi.

The screw I was using holds the current recoil plate tight on the stock it is on. When I removed the recoil plate to transfer it to the new stock, the screw went in VERY easily and would began to tighten, but then loosen again. Therefore I assumed it was the escutcheon. However, could it be the screw that is the problem with this particular escutcheon?

[ChipS]

I've only been working on carbines for about 10 years so I am not your best authority, but if you refinished the stock it may be a very nice and relatively valuable stock, but it is no longer collector grade. Therefore, if you intend to shoot the carbine and the NEW recoil plate screw will not draw down sufficiently tight to protect the stock from damage then I would very carefully attempt to replace the escutcheon as described above. Worst case scenaro, if you do chip out the excutcheon hole you can repair it by glueing back the original wood chip and refinish so it is barely noticiable.

I definitely would do nothing until I tried a brand new recoil plate screw. For the life of me I don't understand why either the screw or the escutcheon threads ever wear/strip but I do know this appears occassionally. More knowledeable members may be able to offer better advice on this matter, both technical and non-technical, but I think we will all agree that if you must replace the escutcheon nut you should do it very carefully to protect and conserve the stock as much as possible. Good luck.

[painter777]

"I am unsure as to how to fully seat the new escutheon"


Seating new escutheon nut,
Critical point here, as the Recoil plate fit is key.
Obvious here...but often over looked..... first make sure your new FULLY THREADED screw and nut will thread together. I've found loose Escutheon nuts that seem to have a coarser inner thread that a USGI screw WILL NOT THREAD INTO.
When seating a new nut, I seat the Recoil plate and hold it in place with a piece of masking tape across it, then run the screw down and start threading into the nut. Pay close attention that the splines on the nut are lining up to the originals.
Some nuts I've been able to push in partially so I know it's lined up correctly then thread down as per above.
By tightening the screw your pulling the nut up into position.... seating it. Don't tap it in and expect the plate and screw to line up.
Once the escutheon nut is started and knowing it's lined up correctly... I turn the stock upside down. Before the splines are completely seated a light drop or two of Soapy Water can be used on the OUTSIDE SPLINES ONLY.
With the stock still upside down, go ahead and tighten down the screw and recoil plate.
Provided there was no damage to the woods recoil plate shelf, you should end up with a correctly seated Recoil plate, nut and screw.
Later when ready to 'Hang' your barreled/receiver, you can adjust the recoil plate as needed.

I've had a couple dozen stocks I've had to change the escutheon nuts on.
Frank is so correct in pre-oiling this area... both from the top and bottom. Those nuts rust and tend to bite in place. This along with multiple coats of RLO/BLO... etc over the years can glue them in place. Which should be expected after 60 years.

Removing the original escutheon nut,
I thread a FULLY THREADED RECOIL PLATE SCREW in from the bottom.
I place a hard rubber pad approx 4"x4" with a 1/2" circular hole cut in it. A friend uses leather. To keep from marring the stock.
Then slip a flat washer on top of the pad, centered over the hole in the rubber pad with a inner diameter of 1x2". This will mash down on the rubber pad and brace the wood around the old escutheon nut to keep from breaking or splintering it.
Place the stock on a padded surface upside down.
I then place a soft piece of 1x2 pine with another 1/2" hole drilled thru it on top of the flat washer and rubber pad.
When all 3 holes are lined up I placed a large flat washer with a inner diameter smaller than the head of the recoil plate screw on top of the pine.
Finger start the FULLY THREADED SCREW into the escutheon nut. When you start getting tight, it should start slowly backing out the old nut. On occassion you may have to re-oil from the top.

Works like a poor mans gear puller, but with the padding you won't mar the stock. The washer really helps to support the outer wood near the original nut.

I'm a bit rushed and hope this makes sense and is of some help.

Regards,
Charlie-painter777

P.S.
Almost forgot a important point....... Check the splines on the original nut when you pull it.
There are 2 versions of these splines. On one the splines are straight up and down, the other has twisted splines. You would want to put in a matching spline. See picture.