Remove and Replace Stock Escutcheon

[painter777]

"I am unsure as to how to fully seat the new escutheon"


Seating new escutheon nut,
Critical point here, as the Recoil plate fit is key.
Obvious here...but often over looked..... first make sure your new FULLY THREADED screw and nut will thread together. I've found loose Escutheon nuts that seem to have a coarser inner thread that a USGI screw WILL NOT THREAD INTO.
When seating a new nut, I seat the Recoil plate and hold it in place with a piece of masking tape across it, then run the screw down and start threading into the nut. Pay close attention that the splines on the nut are lining up to the originals.
Some nuts I've been able to push in partially so I know it's lined up correctly then thread down as per above.
By tightening the screw your pulling the nut up into position.... seating it. Don't tap it in and expect the plate and screw to line up.
Once the escutheon nut is started and knowing it's lined up correctly... I turn the stock upside down. Before the splines are completely seated a light drop or two of Soapy Water can be used on the OUTSIDE SPLINES ONLY.
With the stock still upside down, go ahead and tighten down the screw and recoil plate.
Provided there was no damage to the woods recoil plate shelf, you should end up with a correctly seated Recoil plate, nut and screw.
Later when ready to 'Hang' your barreled/receiver, you can adjust the recoil plate as needed.

I've had a couple dozen stocks I've had to change the escutheon nuts on.
Frank is so correct in pre-oiling this area... both from the top and bottom. Those nuts rust and tend to bite in place. This along with multiple coats of RLO/BLO... etc over the years can glue them in place. Which should be expected after 60 years.

Removing the original escutheon nut,
I thread a FULLY THREADED RECOIL PLATE SCREW in from the bottom.
I place a hard rubber pad approx 4"x4" with a 1/2" circular hole cut in it. A friend uses leather. To keep from marring the stock.
Then slip a flat washer on top of the pad, centered over the hole in the rubber pad with a inner diameter of 1x2". This will mash down on the rubber pad and brace the wood around the old escutheon nut to keep from breaking or splintering it.
Place the stock on a padded surface upside down.
I then place a soft piece of 1x2 pine with another 1/2" hole drilled thru it on top of the flat washer and rubber pad.
When all 3 holes are lined up I placed a large flat washer with a inner diameter smaller than the head of the recoil plate screw on top of the pine.
Finger start the FULLY THREADED SCREW into the escutheon nut. When you start getting tight, it should start slowly backing out the old nut. On occassion you may have to re-oil from the top.

Works like a poor mans gear puller, but with the padding you won't mar the stock. The washer really helps to support the outer wood near the original nut.

I'm a bit rushed and hope this makes sense and is of some help.

Regards,
Charlie-painter777

P.S.
Almost forgot a important point....... Check the splines on the original nut when you pull it.
There are 2 versions of these splines. On one the splines are straight up and down, the other has twisted splines. You would want to put in a matching spline. See picture.