Argentino M1879 Rolling Block. Is it worth restoring?

[Claven2]

Re: Melamine Resin - I think this is what is used in products like StopRot, but no, I've not used it myself.

Looking at the above damage, firstly, if it were my rifle, I would not try to repair or diguise the impacted area at all, I would merely seek to stabilize the cracks. I also would not recommend the shellac repair as was rightly pointed out, it will likely dlex and crumble with use.

I think you really have two option here. But lets step back a moment and consider cleaning. The gel stripper you have been using is also available in a liquid form that is viscous enough to enter that crack - essentially it is watery acetone. I would get an old fine bristle toothbrush and scrub those cracks with watery acetone to try to get out as much dirt and crud as you can.

Now onto repair options. If you can spread the cracks enough (about 1mm in the middle), you can use the epoxy/sanding dust mixture. You will need to locate a piece of scrap walnut and use a belt sander to turn it into fine sanding dust. You buy a 2-part epoxy from the hardware store - ensur eyou get clear and that it is wood compatible. The package will confirm if it is or not. You won't be able to squirt it in, get a piece of flexible plastic and use it to trowel the epoxy into the crack while it's still wet and malleable. Don't overdo it as you don;t want it to squeeze out into the cleaning rod channel. Leave the eopxy proud until after it cures and then at about the 8 hour mark, shave it as close to the wood as you can with a razor blade or sharp exacto knife. At the 24 hour mark, file it as flush as you can without beating up the wood with a fine mill file and then finally sand flush with 400 grit wet/dry.

If you can't spread the crack by that much, I would go another way. Get some 5 minute setting cyano-acrylate glue. It's made by companies like Loctite and Krazyglue, etc. This stuff is VERY runny and will stick to even dirty or oily surfaces. squirt the glue over the crack and then gently flex the crack open and closed a few times to help it wick in. Let it set. It will not have filled the crack up to the surface, but it will be glued solid. Now take some sanding dust and with your fingers work it into any part of the crack that isn;t proud to the surface of the stock. Once done, dribble more CA glue over the sawdust and let it set. After 4 hours or so, use the razorblade to shave close to flush and then use 400grit wet/dry wrapped around a file or wodden sanding block to blend it to the surface of the stock.

As I said, this will structurally fix the fine cracks, but it will NOT repair the impact damage. IF you want to do that we are now into chiselled patching, but honestly, given the overall condition and age fo the rifle, I would leave it as acceptable. There is not enough material loss on that non-critical surface to attempt a patch repair in my opinion.

I strongly suggest you read through my Brunswick Rifle thread in the black powder sub-forum before you do anything else.

Cheers.

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