Bolt won't close

[Steve H. in N.Y.]

Just began evaluating an SMLE that I recently got and found a problem that I haven't seen before; the bolt won't close that last 1/16" unless I press the bolt head down with my thumb. It seems to be normal that as the extractor contacts it's groove in the barrel, spring pressure causes the front of the bolt to lift slightly. In this case it comes up something like .010" (or less) too far and the front edge of the bolt head butts up against the receiver ring. I've measured what I could and swapped parts in and out until my fingers hurt and can only conclude that the inside of the receiver is worn just a little bit. At this point I think I might just put a small chamfer on the edge of the bolt head and call it a day. Has someone seen this problem before? Any other ideas?

Information

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[Son]

Ok, now you've got me. I'll go down and get a rifle out later and see what I can come up with- no logical explanation yet... anyone?

[smellie]

Sand in the extractor cut?

Extractor ground at some strange angle?

Can't get any of mine to do it.

Sorry for no help.
.

[Alan de Enfield]

Nothing to suggest - except, maybe the bolt raceway is very worn and allowing the bolt to slop about.

[tbonesmith]

I've seen it on an action body that had been somewhat twisted by someone using a bar through through the action top to bottom. The bloke had put the barrel in a bench vice, and anyway had twisted the receiver. Did just the same thing.

[Peter Laidler]

This might seem to be a problem with the front of the body, like the breeching up ring, but it's very probably a worn out REAR of the body. Wear at the rear that you can see/feel by rocking the bolt around. On some old bodies, putting the bolt in is like throwing a sausage down the High Street. While the wear seems to be minimal at the rear end, the accumulative effect at the front end is exaggerated to the extend that the bolt is lifted up and therefore touches the breeching ring

I wouldn't mind betting that if you lift the rear of the bolt upwards while you're sliding it forwards, you'll have overcome the problem. Alas, it's not a cure and the body is still what we in technical circles define as 'shagged'. There is a greater degree of wear and that is defined by us REME types as 'well and truly shagged.............' Isn't that right Son, Tankie and Skippy?

Next phase, the can of white paint and a ZF on the butt

[Patrick Chadwick]

Dear Peter, two questions:

1) Why ZF? Readers are familiar with FUBAR and SNAFU, but what on earth does ZF stand for?

2) Why on the butt, which can easily be swapped (and doubtless has been , by unscrupulous people)?

Patrick

[Alan de Enfield]

Nothing to suggest - except, maybe the bolt raceway is very worn and allowing the bolt to slop about.

This might seem to be a problem with the front of the body, like the breeching up ring, but it's very probably a worn out REAR of the body.

If you have tried other bolt combinations in this rifle and it still doesnt work, try the bolt from this rifle in another one - if it fits OK then it looks to me like confirmation that the action is "BER" / "ZF"

[Steve H. in N.Y.]

Thanks for all of your replies, I'll keep them in mind when I get back to the thing on my next day off. I'm picking up lots of negative waves but I'll try to think happy thoughts in the meantime.

[Peter Laidler]

Patrick. ZF is a technical mnemonic in the Army for Z= Base workshop repair only and the F=factory standard. Meaning that the rifle has failed due to a fault that can only be repaired at a factory level. In this case, a worn body. We NEVER replaced the body (we called it the master componment) anywhere but the factory. It was never an Ordnance issued part

Why they paint it on the butt is because that way, it's as big as it gets and everyone can see it. Oh, please............, Patrick, please don't tell me that some unscrupulous dealers tell the subsequent gulliable members of the public that it stands for Zimbabwe Forces or remove it!