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  1. #1
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    Bedding the stock

    I was talking to a older gent last night and he mentioned removing the recoil plate and putting a thin coat of 5 minute epoxy, then putting the recoil plate back on. He said it helped his groups quite a bit. Ever heard of this ?
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    A Collector's View - The SMLE Short Magazine Lee Enfield 1903-1989. It is 300 8.5x11 inch pages with 1,000+ photo’s, most in color, and each book is serial-numbered.  Covering the SMLE from 1903 to the end of production in India in 1989 it looks at how each model differs and manufacturer differences from a collecting point of view along with the major accessories that could be attached to the rifle. For the record this is not a moneymaker, I hope just to break even, eventually, at $80/book plus shipping.  In the USA shipping is $5.00 for media mail.  I will accept PayPal, Zelle, MO and good old checks (and cash if you want to stop by for a tour!).  CLICK BANNER to send me a PM for International pricing and shipping. Manufacturer of various vintage rifle scopes for the 1903 such as our M73G4 (reproduction of the Weaver 330C) and Malcolm 8X Gen II (Unertl reproduction). Several of our scopes are used in the CMP Vintage Sniper competition on top of 1903 rifles. Brian Dick ... BDL Ltd. - Specializing in British and Commonwealth weapons Specializing in premium ammunition and reloading components. Your source for the finest in High Power Competition Gear. Here at T-bones Shipwrighting we specialise in vintage service rifle: re-barrelling, bedding, repairs, modifications and accurizing. We also provide importation services for firearms, parts and weapons, for both private or commercial businesses.
     

  3. #2
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    good, no good ?

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    As I've read, the best way to ensure accuracy with the M1icon Carbine is to have the action "float" in the stock. That is, approx. 1/8" clearance between the barrel and the front channel of the stock, when the action is seated in the recoil plate. If your barrel rests flat on the nose of the stock channel, you would need to lower the recoil plate. This is done by removing thin amounts of wood from the recoil plate shelf. If your barrel is much over the 1/8" when secured by the recoil plate, you would have to raise the the level of the shelf. This can be done by a shim, or I suppose by building up with some epoxy. That's all I know. I'm sure others more knowledgeable will chime in. Larry

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    I have heard of this. If you do it, use a junk stock because you may not set the recoil plate in the epoxy the right depth and angle. The carbine will have to be in the recoil plate tight and held up a half inch at the nose to have a chance of geting it right. Bolt in almost tight.

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    You might want to read this .pdf from the CMPicon site. The recoil plate info is about 1/3 of the way down.

    http://www.thecmp.org/pdfs/CMP_Carbine_Notes_2007.pdf

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    What type of stock do you have on it now?
    I'd hate to see you mess with a collectible stock, when M2 potbelly stocks are much cheaper.
    Haven't heard mention of the type of barrel band you have on your Stan Pro yet either.
    If your hitting 3-5" groups @ 1oo, You may get tighter, but don't expect a tack driver at that range out of a carbine.

    JMO,
    Charlie-painter777

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    Type 3 band with bayo lug. Band is marked "MMO". Marlin barrel that looks like a mirror.I have the early stock with I oiler. Upper handguard is rock-ola.
    Last edited by Sproducts; 03-13-2011 at 11:17 PM.

  10. #8
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    Sproducts,
    Does your I cut stock have any markings in the slingwell?
    Or any type of marking on the right side-forward of the oiler slot?
    Is it still a Hi-wood stock?


    Charlie

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    Nothing in the sling well.
    stan prod rwh on the left side. On the side with the action is stamped UHD, its hard to read. Yes its high wood.

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    I used the CMPicon instructions to "hang" the action in my stock, and it worked well. 1/8" gap was perfect.

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