Any ideas on stock markings

[pcaru1]

I just bought a stripped down stock to replace the poly'd, shiny stock I have on my 6,111,XXX Underwood. It has an M and a flaming bomb (faint but there) in the sling cut out. There is a "P" without circle (again faint but there) on the bottom of the wrist behind the escutcheon hole. The only other markings are three A's (A A A) on the left side of stock??? Can anyone explain these a's? As far as I know the "M" and flaming bomb make it a Type IV war time replacement stock. There is no metal on the stock.
I plan on sanding it lightly and applying BLO for the finish. And sorry no pics. I just couldn't get anything to show up good enough to post. All imput appreciated.

Information

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[usgicollector]

The M is the makers marking and the three A'a are an Augusta Arsenal rebuildark and the P is from the proof firing at the rebuild. AA is Augusta Arsenal and The third A is the inspector. Remember that the markings on the stock may not be from your carbine being rebuilt as that stock may not have been on that carbine at that time.
Dave

[painter777]

My Guess,
These M marked stocks are Marlin made, but no proof.
I'd have to dig one out again to double check, but seemed like they have,
A Long barrel channel and Extra cut for recoilplate support.
I like them, they have a good stout feel in hand.

HTH,
Charlie-painter777

[pcaru1]

usgicollector-Thanks for the info.
painter-Thanks also. I found the info on pg. 116-117 on stock markings in Riesch's book. I take all info into account. I have some pics that came out, sunlight is better than flash in this case.

[Bubba-7]

Please use: first coat 50-50 mineral sprits and RAW linseed oil. Put on heavy and wipe off excess, dry over night. Second coat 100% RAW linseed oil. Put on not as heavy with fingers, wipe off excess and runs. Ready to use or dry over night.
That is it.

[pcaru1]

Please use: first coat 50-50 mineral sprits and RAW linseed oil.

BLO doesn't work as well? I have used it before on other stocks. Looks OK. What's the benefit of RAW linseed oil?

[CrossedCannons]

It's edible

[Bubba-7]

Raw linseed soaks into the wood more and does not dry hard and will not shine. It will give you the military feel. It will not feel hard. You can put BLO over RLO but you cannot put RLO over BLO. So once you do BLO You are done unless you strippe it. For carbines RLO is correct and what the government used. While we have custody of these historical artifacts I believe in doing no harm. This is only for the carbine. If you want the hard slick look for a commercial stock, just use True Oil and be done with it.

I will be slammed for the above but it will not be the first time. RLO is harder to get. You have to go to a large paint shop. Most hardware stores and the like will not have RLO, only BLO.
And I would say most, if not all, people who use BLO have not ever used RLO. You can put a coat of RLO on at 12:00 and be on the range shooting it at 12:05 if you like. It is wonderful stuff.
It's your carbine, you will do with it as you wish. Just because many/everyone does it, does not mean it is the best.
Writting this reminded me of a story.
Back in 2004 after CMP sold their "White Bag" carbines I was buying a few in the after market. I bought one on GB a 6.4 Winchester near perfect. When I received it, the stock was well oiled. I emailed the former owner and asked, what had he used on the stock? And he was so proud, he said "The stock was so dry I used Syntec on it", as in Castrol. Boy did that really get me off.

[pcaru1]

Bubba,
Thanks for the heads up. I have used a 50/50 mix on some other stocks with success. I think i might go the RLO route on this one and see how it comes out. I do not like the True oil or Tung oil finishes on milsurps. Too shiny. I'll leave that to my hunting rifles.

[CrossedCannons]

RLO = "flax seed oil" available at any decent health food store