Using the M91/30 sling

[ptf18]

Love the heavy duty web carry strap that the Ruskys must of used to carry the rifle with. They couldnt have used it as a sling they way we in the "west" did/do.

I shoot my MN prone and sure would like to use this dog collar sling but for the life of me havent came up with a way to do so.

Any ideas?

So far Ive removed the front dog collar and placed it around the stock just forward of the front sight. Seems to work BUT there is really no way to adjust the lenght.

Ideas?

Lester

Information

Warning: This is a relatively older thread This discussion is older than 360 days. Some information contained in it may no longer be current.

[Josh Smith]

The picture is part of a larger article about accurizing the Mosin-Nagant, that I have up on my website for the sights.

Josh

[jmoore]

The picture is part of a larger article about accurizing the Mosin-Nagant, that I have up on my website for the sights.

And the link to that articles is??? Or your website?

[Josh Smith]

Hello,

It is http://www.smith-sights.com . Just click "Articles" and you'll see the few I've been able to do thus far. Debating on doing one about reloading the 7.62x54R... liability, you see. But still considering it.

I wasn't sure how you'd take a link to my site as I'm only advertising on here through Google Ads, but as you asked, there's the site!

Josh

[jmoore]

Actually, I think your services will make life easier for those desiring an easier way to fine tune their 91/30. Might have to get one or two myself.

Here's a question that you may have a good answer for: What to do with those Mosins that have really loose front sight dovetails? Damage or sloppy machining seems pretty common.

[Josh Smith]

Hello,

Do you mean the sight is loose in the sight base?

If the latter's the case, I just shim them. In fact, I include shims with my sights, regardless of whether it's a modification to your sight from your rifle or a sight supplied by me.

If it's the former, a loose sight base, I'd have to go with "silver solder it".

Regards Sir,

Josh

[vintage hunter]

I think you'ld want to steer clear of 'silver solder'', that would require the barrel to be heated to a bright cherry before the solder would flow and bond properly. The correct solder to use would be the non acid core lead/tin mix plumbers use to solder copper water pipes, 50/50, 75/25 and 95/5 comes to mind.

[Josh Smith]

Hello,

I've had good luck with low silver content silver solder, but to correctly do it, you really should use the following items:

RAMP SOLDERING JIG - Brownells


SILVALOY 355 SILVER SOLDER - Brownells


It's true that it has a high melting point and is closer to brazing than to soldering. This is why it's a good idea to bury as much of the object to be soldered as possible in wet sand. It controls heat.

However, if the sight is loose in the dovetail, which he appears to mean, then the shim is the fix.

Josh

[jmoore]

Yah, loose sights in the dovetails. I read about the shims in your instructions later, but decided to leave the post. If the base is loose, even high temp lok-tite works on this rifle.

[Darkwolfe]

Josh- If/When you decide to do your reloading article, I'll pass a couple of my more amusing recipes along if you want them. Got everything from a lightweight plinker/trainer load to a nice little zinger with the .310 123gr JSP that Hornady makes. I need to work up a sabot load, but haven't gotten around to it.