LB n 4 mk1* trigger double action problem

[CCAMERA50]

Hi guys ,

i 'm a new member ,
....immediately a question about a ...( problem ? )

well, some day ago , to see how tight is the contact between fore-hand and action
body i insert some paper shim ( about 0,05 inches ) in the classics positions
( also under the pressure point on the barrel end )

the first thing i saw was that , i was completely miss the trigger double action

really i' a newcomer in the enfield but i can' explain me the reason of it

someone can help me ( i wouldlike make the bedding ) but the start it seem not
too encouraging

Thank you to all

Carlo

Information

Warning: This is a relatively older thread This discussion is older than 360 days. Some information contained in it may no longer be current.

[Claven2]

I believe you are saying that you do not have a second stage to your trigger?

Generally, when this happens, there are a few possibilities.

1) Remove the trigger guard and examine the trigger. There should be two small "humps" on the end of the trigger itself. If there is only one, someone has filed one off and you need to replace the trigger.
2) While the trigger guard is off, look at the kingscrew area of the stock (it's the front trigger guard screw). There should be a steel liner in the hole. If it is missing or is proud of the wood, it will need to be repaired.
3) Try swapping in another trigger guard if the above two items don't work. If that fixes your issue, then bend the LB trigger guard to match the bend in the second one. Sometimes the geometry of the trigger guard itself gets altered (bent) and changes to the trigger pull can result.

Hope that helps.

[CCAMERA50]

thank for the reply ,

not possible , because when i eliminate the shims ,the f***d double action get back

the trigger is untouched ( with is two "hills" ) - i also suspected the light accuratization
i made by modify just a little the angle af the cocking piece , but it seem unbelieveble
( because before shims the trigger was switest and correct working and after ....also )

other things not ( yet ) made ...... then i can' t what to say

best regards

Carlo

[Peter Laidler]

Carlo, I suggest to you that you read an article that I wrote a year or so ago about setting the trigger pressures. Download it and take it to a friend who can read English and translate it for you.

There is also a long article about fitting the fore-end properly

[CCAMERA50]

Carlo, I suggest to you that you read an article that I wrote a year or so ago about setting the trigger pressures. Download it and take it to a friend who can read English and translate it for you.

There is also a long article about fitting the fore-end properly

Hi Mr. Laidler ,

Thank you for your quick answer ,
downloaded the two article you said , started to read and translate
well... i belive will find here all i need you


best regards

Carlo

---------- Post added at 03:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:29 PM ----------

Hi Mr. Laidler ,

Thank you for your quick answer ,
downloaded the two article you said , started to read and translate
well... i belive will find here all i need you


best regards

Carlo

...sorry

"well... i belive will find here all i need"

( me only , .... not , of course ,you )

regards

CC

[David TS]

thank for the reply ,

not possible , because when i eliminate the shims ,the f***d double action get back

the trigger is untouched ( with is two "hills" ) - i also suspected the light accuratization
i made by modify just a little the angle af the cocking piece , but it seem unbelieveble
( because before shims the trigger was switest and correct working and after ....also )

other things not ( yet ) made ...... then i can' t what to say

best regards

Carlo

Ah, you messed with it

Peter will help you out

[CCAMERA50]

Well ,
i read the Peter Laidler’s two articles about trigger Pull Off , then I disassembled the rifle and
effectively I verified the wrong thing I made .......
the paper shim placed between the action body and the fore hand
( in the position of the front trigger guard screw ) cause a variation of the angle of the trigger guard
against the sear ( ...yeah ! Claven2 , you said .....) and then produce an FPO as well described
from Mr Laidler ( only the first rib of the trigger practically work ) then :
a) eliminate unnecessary shims - I lived only in the pressure point at the end of the barrel
( where was effectively necessary )
b) re-stoned the cocking piece ( a little reduction of the angle because was too much “sweet” )
now there is again my double trigger action ( I love too ) , the pressure point is ok and the next
week end I will test immediately the things on the shooting range
………..no doubts about a good result , chapeau to Mr Laidler !
Thank you again at all

Carlo

[CCAMERA50]

Hi guys ,

well, i tested my LB at range with the following results
( military sight and me ....we made at 100 yds some
six / six and half inches groups )

first it is necessary to improve the shooter , second i could
think the rifle it is ok , ( "on military standard" ? ? )

in the range , talking about bedding , someone told me about the
necessity of an other bearing (pressure point ) at the middle of
the barrel also ( practically were is the lower band )

i saw the Peter Laidler's article regarding bedding but i noticed
nothing at all about it

it is true or ( as i think ) only a .... bu****it ?

can some of you tell me something ?

Thank you and best regards

Carlo

[Thunderbox]

"Centre bedding" was used on some No4 target rifles, but it has no real advantage over "standard bedding" that should be on your rifle. A military No4 should be able to produce a 10cm group at 100m with most types of ammunition.

1. Make sure that the front trigger guard screw is tight;

2. Make sure that the barrel is free to move up (about 2-4mm) inside the woodwork, with no obstructions or noises.

[Claven2]

most people preaching centre-bedding are actually thinking of a No.1MkIII Enfield. The No.4 rifle is to be floated from the knox form to the tip of the forestock. The forestock provides an upward pressure point if properly bedded.