Removing the barrel from the action and parting it off in a lathe is the conventional way to shorten the barrel. But it may just be easier to counterbore it a bit until the rifling is strong. Drill and a reamer is all that's needed, but again, it's easier to do on a lathe. Why not just try countersinking it a little first? Or is the muzzle worn more than 2-3mm?
IF you are careful and know how to use a file to properly remove cut marks and square up the front, you can just hacksaw the barrel back. It's a lot more sweat producing than using fancy machines, but it can work perfectly well given some degree of mechanical aptitude. You'll still need to crown the barrel, lest the smallest accidental contact near the bore throw up a burr that'll move the zero off. That's the hardest part!
Note that the muzzle can be up to 7 degrees (maybe a little more) off plumb without reducing accuracy, but the zero will be so bad that you may run out of sight adjustment trying to zero the rifle. So, the closer to square, the better.
No burrs interuding on the bore, either, as a little one will throw off zero like a "crooked crown", at least for a while, and a big burr can lead to a small bulge, thus defeating your efforts.
Duplicating the rounded form of the old crown isn't required.
Basically, it just depends on how good the craftsman is rather than the degree of sophistication of his tools as to whether the shorter barrel will be servicable.