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Originally Posted by
Douglas Kerley
I define a repo as an item made after the period of the original item to look like a period item. Doug
That's what I figured you meant too, but I assumed you were making a typo and meant to say "repro".
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12-28-2011 01:44 AM
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Originally Posted by
MeatMarket
That's what I figured you meant too, but I assumed you were making a typo and meant to say "repro".
Exactly, too many people can't seem to remember that when you say "repo" ( a too common mistake) you are saying "repossession", not reproduction.
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This is a snide up!. No oil hole in the pommel. None of my No5 bayonets have cross grinding on the blade. Some one has ground the stampings off. Cross grinding stopped about 1903 and it was used to keep oil in the bayonet scabbard.
If this was a Stirling bayonet. You would see Stirling stamped on the blade if it was non british forces issue. A subcontracor of Stirlings is Hopkinson. H in a box stamping ( and they still make knives).
Wood does not look right either. It will also feal light weight. Compare to a SLR L1A3 or 4 bayonet.
Get a proper British
made No5 bayonet, you will not regret it. However the War time made No5 bayonets are a little roughly finished as standard.
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The acid test (? or one that is as simple as a bloke without metallurgy facilities needs) to see whether it is the correct steel - and therefore a pretty good test of whether it is real - is to take the grips off and touch the blade part under the grips onto a grinding wheel in your darkened workshop, Nice white sparks and it's good, hard steel. Dull red and it's rubbish.
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A Viners No5 bayonet with wood grips, 2 screws. Weighs 300grms with out the scabbard. Hope this is of help. Lester