New 'Gunshow Inland' - need opinions and comments

[Capt Mil Coll]

Say may be a dumb question but what do you mean by 5.4 carbine? Thanks for all your knowledge and hard work guys.

[painter777]

Capt Mil Coll,
He means a 5,4 million serial number.

Charlie-painter777

[USGI]

Frank: On mine, the shelf will only come out from the front due to the shape of the break. I've been debating doing it just like you said, but a little bit afraid I won't be able to get it all the way back in position - might try it anyway. I may take pictures later from a couple different angles, and have you look at it before I proceed.

Thanks, Bob

[frankderrico]

Bob, good idea. The pics will certainly help.....Frank

[USGI]

Here's pictures of the bright spots on the barrel behind the front sight - caused by tools when the sight was pulled/replaced, or use of a grenade launcher? Also, adding pictures of the the "broken" recoil shelf. What do you think on the shelf, Frank? Thanks! - Bob

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[frankderrico]

Hi Bob, that is very close to the one I posted on page 2. I would use the supper glue "gel". It takes longer to set up. I would sqeeze it out on the stock and the slide the shelf back in place. Have a small trim hammer ready to tap it in place (if needed). Also have a small block of wood and a padded clamp that can bridge the bottom of the stock and put pressure on the block of wood. Do a couple of practice runs before you use the glue so that once you are ready to glue everything goes step by step. The way it broke out gives you alot of surface for the glue. When it's cured it should be as strong or stronger than before.
Good Luck and Best Regards.....Frank

[INLAND44]

Wow. I've never seen one that was totally broken out like that. Well, now, that is a horse of another color. As Frank says, the SG Gel would work since you can get to all surfaces. This also controls the glue and keeps it where it belongs. I don't see any cracks in the chip area behind the tang. One thing I have done is to use the gel, give it an hour or so, then go around the seams with the liquid SG to see if you can get any in. This fills voids in the original job and contributes to penetration of the wood and resultant hardening/bonding.

[frankderrico]

Inland makes a good point on follow up with the liquid to fill any voids. I would still leave it clamped overnight.
The chip behind the recoil plate is an easy fix.
Bob let us know how it goes.

Regards.....Frank

[USGI]

Thanks guys! I ended up printing the procedure and Frank's picture of the clamp setup. Company will be here all the rest of this week, so the project will be on hold for awhile. Maybe I'll take the action apart tonight and find out what the bolt markings are. That chip might be an easy fix for Frank, but I've been losing sleep over it - and if the checkering can be removed. - Bob

[USGI]

Probably TR was right about the bolt, but I still wonder if it could possibly be original to the gun? It turned out to be an NPM marked flat bolt - left lug is marked N 14. I've been studying some in War Baby! - Inland and NPM did share some bolts. NPM used this type bolt mid '43 to the end of production, and also some A.I. marked round bolts. My theory would be that when NPM ended production, some of their left over bolts may have gone back to Inland in the late spring of '44. These may possibly have been used in some Inland M1's mid to late '44. According to WarBaby! the majority of Inland's production during some of these months was M2's. M2's would have been fitted with round bolts, so maybe during that time a flat bolt found it's way into my M1. My bolt does have all "original" looking Inland marked internal parts. The only thing that doesn't agree with Riesch is the extractor plunger is "in the white." Riesch says all were originally blue or parked. The inside of the receiver and the "bolt run" appear in almost new condition. The trigger housing has the vertical Inland marking, but there are a couple of "odd things" about the internal parts. I'll try to get back on in a few days and give more info about the TH. - Bob

Need to edit here because I've recently found there was a mistake in War Baby about the dates of manufacture on the M2's - They were not being produced at all in mid '44.