Instructions for Wire, Non Electrical Brass, Screwed No2 Standard

[Bruce_in_Oz]

The wire was also used on L1A1 butt repairs as well.

The procedure also calls for the No. 49 drill bit.

The wire is specified as "Wire, commercial brass, screwed No.2 standard"

Interestingly, for "minor" split on the L1A1 butts, no glue is mentioned..

However, for splits up to 3" long and when "slip-patching, glue was to be used

The glue in question was "Adhesive, glue marine - Nightingale 'Group 68', for what it's worth.

As I have found, many old stocks are utterly saturated in oil of various descriptions and thus the repair surfaces MUST be de-oiled before attempting any glue jobs.

One of the more interesting methods is to slightly pry open the crack and use carburetor cleaner in a pressure-pack can fitted with an extension nozzle. This stuff dissolves all sorts of things, including the natural oils in your skin so be careful. Once the area is thoroughly dry, go to it with your favourite high-strength epoxy adhesive. DO NOT use "super / crazy" glue as it will fail in short order, especially in warm humid climates.

If you don't have or don't want to use the threaded rod, try this: cut motor or bicyclr inner tubes into long strips about 1/2 inch wide. Start wrapping the rubber strip an inch or so before the origin of the split. Stretch and wrap the rubber strip at the same time as working towards the "open" end of the split. It is amazing how much compression you can get with this stuff. You don't have to worry about denting the timber with clamps, but you will have to do some fine clean-up work when the glue is set in a day or so. Epoxies will cheerfully bond rubber to wood so a bit of fine shaving ans sanding may be in order to tidy up the job.

If the split is relatively new and has not acquired fuzzy edges of lost fine splinters, the repair can come out as almost invisible.

This technique is also handy for repairing old household furniture.