M1 GARAND Gas Cylinder & front sight question (range issues)

[HILLBILLY-06]

I have gotten a lot of great info here, so I have a question up for grabbs here...
When I took my M1 Garand to the range for the first time a few weeks ago, it shot good, it felt awesome, I loved it...
Yeah, sometimes there's a but... Even thinking I had properly greased everything, really well, and going through the rifle top to bottom, It fired each time I pulled the trigger, and ejected the spent round. BUT... It failed to strip the subsequent round out of the enblock once in a while. Here are my observations for you to mull over...
1). AMMO= 30-06 M2 BALL AMA-90 loaded in unmarked/unstamped Enblocks w/heavy park.
2). Rifle= Springfield 1944, cleaned and greased and lubed up real good.
3). rifle fired in a Caldwell Lead slead shooting rest with no wieghts installed (didn't have any).
4). @ 100yrds all bullets in black, on SR-1 nra reduced target.
5). The Top rounds on all enblock ammo is on the right on all my enblocks, as per instructions.
6). The first two Enblocks I fired were HXP Greek, with G.I .Enblocks, worked flawlessly.
7). Only the AMA-90 and non-stamped/non-marked enblocks did this. I noticed heavy park on
all of those enblocks, & no park on the two old G.I. ones that worked well.
Here is what I did when I got back home, This may be important... I stripped and cleaned my Rifle, and put all those enblocks in the tumbler to remove that heavy park on them. When I was done greasing up the rifle, and putting it back together, I noticed something wierd....
Maybe you have some suggestions here as well.... After I gently cleaned out my gas cylinder and the piston on my oprod, I noticed that even with the gas screw tightened, the gas cylinder and Front sight will jiggle a little bit. (DID I do something wrong by not removing it ?) I don't remeber even checking it before I went to the range, but shouldn't the gas cylinder and front sight be tight on the barrel ? IF SO... HOW TIGHT ? I mean, how do I know about the vent hole in the barrel, and the one in the gas cylinder being lined up, or weather or not gas leaks if it is just a little loose ?
I hope this isn't a dumb question, I should have payed more attention to it before hand. I don't know if the gas cylinder lock untwisted during my cleaning the rifle, and turning it over, or if it was already like that. I didn't remove the gas cylinder to clean it, but I don't remember it being just a tad loose before iether. Could it being loose cause it to not strip the other rounds after ejection?
ANY SUGGESTIONS ?? Thanks... HILLBILLY-06.

Information

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[Orlando]

I would suspect either the gas cylinder , gas cylinder piston or the op rod screw needs replaced or a combination of the three.
First off replace the Op Rod spring with one from Orion 7.
The piston should measure .5260 to .5253, you can buy a .530 Pin gauge, stick it into the gas cylinder ,the farther it goes into the power stroke are of the cylinder the more worn it it.
You rifle may function fine with these worn parts with Greek HXP as it is hotter

Removing the gas cylinder for cleaning everytime is not recommended (unless using corrosive ammo) as it will wear the barrel splines and will result in a loose fit as on your rifle. It is possible to peen the splines on barrel to tighten fit .
I only remove the cylinder once a year for a complete tear down, clean/lube

A gas cylinder with slight rotation will not cause short stroking but will affect accuracy.
Personally I have never seen a gas cylinder fit bad enough that the gas port would not line up enough to cause short stroking.

If the gas screw was loose that would cause you issue. Also check to see that it isnt cracked.
Do all the above I suggested, if you still have issues we can go from there but you need to illiminate the above first

[HILLBILLY-06]

I would suspect either the gas cylinder , gas cylinder piston or the op rod screw needs replaced or a combination of the three.
First off replace the Op Rod spring with one from Orion 7.

My op rod spring is over 19 1/2" ...What is the "op rod screw"
I understand about the HXP, it even felt hotter when I fired it. I could notice the difference, especially when it moved my lead sled out of position with each shot fired. It pushed it so far out, I had to re-position everything for each shot. The AMA-90 was milder. I don't have my caliper with me, to check the gas cylinder and piston, but when I go back to my Uncles, where my reloading stuff is, I'll get it then. (No, I haven't used any reloads with my garand yet) I don't even have a set of dies for it yet.
Thanks for the great info and help, I will try to do these things before long, I just got so much going on at once, I can't keep caught up. Thanks again... HILLBILLY-06.

[Orlando]

I meant Op Rod spring, fingers typing faster than my brain was thinking

[HILLBILLY-06]

I meant Op Rod spring, fingers typing faster than my brain was thinking

Gee, that one had me stumped. I'm glad it was a typo, and I wasn't missing a part...LOL

Should I try to tighten that gas lock that threads onto the barrel a twist or two, to be sure its on good, or something? The gas cylinder will slightly wiggle, not much, but if I try to wiggle it it will move. I understand about the accuracy issue that can have, but will it also leak gas out if its loose, causing anything symptomatic to happen? such as anything I mentioned above, or is there a proceedure for testing the follower spring that I can use? I got plenty of empties (fired brass) and endblocks I can play with to try to be sure about tollerences/ dragg, missalignment, or torque on the enblock, as it is inserted, and manually cycled. "Only a suggestion" until I can do that other stuff you mentioned above.

[vintage hunter]

IIRC, when the gas block is fully seated there isn't enough thread for the cyl. lock to be turned another full revolution. The way to tighten the gas cylinder is to peen the rear 3rd of the top spline. Peen it enough so it has to be tapped in place with a wood mallet or hammer and wood block. Stand the rifle muzzle up and tap it on until the full diameter of the port can just be seen then install and tighten the lock just enough for the plug to screw in. The ammo with the AMA headstamp in Danish. It is loaded with a 150gr BT bullet to an average MV of 2950fps, a bit hotter than U.S. M2 with 152gr FB bullet at 2740fps.

[Orlando]

Here is a visual on peening the splines
Armorer's Corner - Gas Cylinder

You need to ilminate the simple things, replace Op Rod spring, make sure rifle is clean and properly GREASED, and everything else that was suggested
Slight rotation of the gas cylinder would not cause your issue

[HILLBILLY-06]

Here is a visual on peening the splines
Armorer's Corner - Gas Cylinder

Thanks for the link, that is good info to have around. Also, the orion op rod spring sounds good, I looked at the info on those. I thought that if my op rod was in speck that all was good, but a lot of folks seem to have corrected a lot of issues by replacing this part, with the orion part. But before I order one or replace it, I have a question about the care and cleaning of the op rod spring... I haven't had the rifle very long, and when I first field stripped it and greased everything, I also greased the op rod spring, until grease was practically impregnated with the spring coils. I only did that to be sure it was really slick inside there....
Should I be using oil on that spring instead, or is the grease just fine?

[Orlando]

Your spring may be fine and replacing it isnt a cure all.
You need to start with the basics, and replacing a spring that may be many years old is cheap insurance and a good idea.
The first thing I do when I buy and Grand is change the Op Rod spring, not matter what the spring in it looks like.
Alittle grease on the spring is what I use

[HILLBILLY-06]

Your spring may be fine and replacing it isnt a cure all.

I haven't replaced anything yet, But today when I had a chance, I took a good look at some of the "basics" and I have one more thought to gather info on....
I have always thought it to pass the tilt test, but now I am not 100% sure it has full travel. Something feels funny as it clears the follower, about the last 1/2 inch of travel on the bolt, is real cluncky and hard. When I took the action out of the stock, and looked for good greased area's, burs, etc... It all looks good, but then my bolt got stuck. I couldn't move it forward at all, no trigger group, follower pressed down, but the op rod spring still intact. I finally after fiddling with it, got the bolt to slam home on my thumb while I was "still holding down the follower with it"
What's in that last 1/2 inch of travel, that could make it do that? Especially feel so sluggish and cluncky right at that particular spot in the travel? The rest of the near full length of travel its smooth as butter, just not right there... "Anyone else notice this, or ever have one hang up" with the follower depressed below the bolt? Incedentally... My rifle was upside down in my lap when the bolt got hung like that, so it may have been my fault... I just dont know, but thought I would ask you guy's who do know, until I can scrape up for spare parts. (Hopefully really good spare parts)... Thanks guy's for all your help so far... HILLBILLY-06.