ROSS 1910 R Marker .303 Ross and LC

[buffdog]

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Some of these commercial Ross rifles were made after the Government took over the Ross factory, using up the parts on hand when possible.

The "303 Ross" stamped on the barrel is right for a sporter, but the "LC" barrels were for Military use.

The commercial Ross sporters had a serial number on the left side of the barrel near the receiver, in numberals about 1/8 inch high. If you remove the butt plate, there MAY (or MAY NOT) be a serial number stamped on the inside top of the butt plate.

Have you fired it? If so, does it blow out the cases? Does it split any fired cases, and if it does, you are going to have to anneal them. If you don't know how to anneal cases, PM me.

If you reload, keep all fired cases for this rifle seperate, and NECK SIZE the cases only. You can buy a LEE set of reloading dies that will neck size the brass, or alternatively, put about a 1/8 inch BRASS washer under the regular resizing die when you are reloading. Full length resizing will weaken the cases after a few loadings, and you WILL have case seperations.

Make sure that the bolt is assembled correctly and locks fully. Use a small flashlight and shine it into the rear of the receiver while closing the bolt to see the locking lugs turn. It they fully engage the receiver, you are good, but if they only engage about 1/7 th. of the receiver and a lot of the lugs are showing, you have a big problem. This is a set of pictures that I made up to show people.
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