how close should a hand gaurd match a stock

[Mark W.]

I am working up a Boyds Finger groove type S stock I have managed to correct the bizarre way they end the finger grooves so it looks much more correct. I have thinned the wrist and reduced the way over proud wood around the trigger gaurd.

but I have a problem with both the handgaurds I have (one came with the stock and matches it, the other is a USGI I bought off ebay)

At the lower band the stock is about .090 wider then the handgaurd. And down the end section of the handgaurd its narrower then the mating surface on the stock.

Is this typical or is this stock just to wide/thick?

heres a photo to give you a better idea of what I am talking about. As you can see the hangaurd at the point of the lower band is quite a bit narrower then the stock. Is this typical on an original Springfield S type stock or should I try to thin the stock to match the handgaurd?

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[Claven2]

The portion of the Boyd's stock you show is made of sapwood which is really light in colour from the looks of things. You may have to stain it with some walnut coloured stain to get it to match the handguard, which is more typical of walnut heartwood.

[Mark W.]

The portion of the Boyd's stock you show is made of sapwood which is really light in colour from the looks of things. You may have to stain it with some walnut coloured stain to get it to match the handguard, which is more typical of walnut heartwood.

Actually the stock is all heart wood the drastic difference in color is due to the stock being sanded to 150 grit and the handgaurd being oxidized as well as the forward portion being dipped in something like beeswax to protect the metal clips (I have since tried to remove this and its clear the handgaurd is ruined for the type of finish I want on the rifle)

I also used shadow and direct light to high light how the width of the handgaurd and the forestock varied.

I am thinking I need to go shopping for another handgaurd as neither one I have is coming up to the level of fit I wanted. As well as one of them having the wax soaked deep into it.

[Salt Flat]

I would match the stock to the handguard as long as the handguard has not been shaved down at all. You have not finished the stock yet so there is no harm in sanding a little more off. Also use the rear band to gauge the width of the stock. I finished off a Boyds C stock a few years ago. It was a real pain as it was way too thick everywhere and the walnut just wouldn't sand right. I think some amount of mismatch is expected with military rifles though, maybe .030-.040. From what I can see of the finger grooves they look pretty nice. I have reworked some of the grooves before and know that it 's hard to get them to look crisp and just right. Just for fun, if you can, post a picture of the groves. Salt flat

[enbloc8]

Keep in mind also that GI stocks were stained with logwood dye prior to 1928.

[Mark W.]

Here what they looked like when I got the stock



here is how the ends look now



I will of course have to redo the grooves and the muzzle end of the groove when I narrow the stock down.

Working off the excellent drawing one of the guys linked me to in my other thread I have measured the two handguards I have and found the Boyds handguard to be slightly to short (about .10") but other wise very close to accurate (except for the sighting groove and the shape of the profile) I can easily fix the sighting groove and I am working on a pattern to use to get the profile of the ramp up to the sighting groove close to accurate for a 1918 era rifle.

I had hoped to avoid so much work getting this together. Since I work 50+ hours a week during the summer and not at all during the winter. This is turning out to be more of a winter project then a summer one.

OH well I can fit an hour or two inbetween house remodeling and all the other crap I have to do on my 1.5 days off a week LOL.

When I finish this project there will be before and after photos (though not before and after of theboyds stock but the whole rifle going from farm fresh to as visually accurate as I can with a repro stock and some repro parts.

[rugersworld]

Just block sand it down to match the hand guard. Then taper slightly from the band back to the receiver.

[Mark W.]

Just block sand it down to match the hand guard. Then taper slightly from the band back to the receiver.

Thats what I will do but in doing that it will cut down into the fingergrooves and cause them to narrow. So once I have the proper taper to the whole mid stock area I will have to rewiden the fingergrooves and redo the rounded ends to make then look correct.