Pictures of my "somewhat original" Inland - what do you guys think?

[USGI]

How do you get the oilers out? Mine is real tight too. I've never gone very far with it for fear of damaging something. Plus, I never really needed the sling off, but I wanted to try it. I can't do it.

Very nice carbine, minus that front sight. I can kind of see why someone would WANT to do that. But I would never do it.

ABPOS,

Some of them are really tight. You have to "un-thread" the sling from around the oiler with the oiler still in place. You may have to do some wiggling around of the oiler to gain the necessary clearance. Some of the slings with thicker material, or the "D" tips can make it a tough job. The stocks can vary a bit too in the dimensions of the slot. I've got a couple that I have to coax a bit with a light hammer and a small wood dowel. There are other posts that will help if you use the search feature. I've got (2) carbines with this front sight "mod." It actually makes it a lot easier to obtain your sight picture, especially in low light - otherwise you might be drawing a bead using one of the protective wings. - Bob

[INLAND44]

The stock was worth about $300 before the monkeying. I think Frank could repair it and make it look like an arsenal job. Obviously you will replace the sight - I think you will come out about even after its all fixed. Maybe about $650 value after repair? I think it would gain a lot more value in the long run, like about 30 years. It'll be 100 then, and minor inconsistencies may become clouded with time.

[ABPOS]

Thanks for the tip on the oiler. Yeah, I think a wood dowel would be the best bet. But I've never been able to unthread the sling out of there. It's in there super tight.

I find AK's and SKS's to really be a problem with the protective wings in the front sight of them. I've never really had that big of a problem with a circular aperture and the wings. But the other day, when I was in my basement, in low light, I did do the same thing. I went to sight in on my Carbine and picked up one of the wings first. So yeah, I can understand it. I've never had a problem with a Garand or M1A though. But I at times get irritated with the aperture on the rear sight. I posted this in the 03 forum. When the light is real bright to your back, it really lights up the rear ap and makes it hard to see the front.

[DaveHH]

The secret with the oilers is to move them in and out as you dismount the sling. A slight push inward or outward makes plenty of clearance to remove the sling. The main thing is to not get frustrated and just keep trying to pull it out. My NPM has a beautiful Inland I cut (high wood trimmed and .U. mark) that has screwdriver injuries from some idiot trying to remove the oiler.

[USGI]

Here's the oiler that came with the Inland. The seller had only owned this carbine for about (2) months. I just assumed that the "mods" had been done years ago, but maybe he did them? The "sight work" looks kind of recent, but I can't tell for sure about the wood - looks old to me. He didn't have the sling for it, but I can see why it might not have survived! More pictures of the internals coming soon. The only thing I see in question so far is that it has the "dog leg" hammer, but with the later design spring. Do any of you Inland guys know if that could be original? Thanks! - Bob

[USGI]

The stock was worth about $300 before the monkeying. I think Frank could repair it and make it look like an arsenal job. Obviously you will replace the sight - I think you will come out about even after its all fixed. Maybe about $650 value after repair? I think it would gain a lot more value in the long run, like about 30 years. It'll be 100 then, and minor inconsistencies may become clouded with time.

I'm thinking it's worth at least $800-$900 for parts just the way it is. But, I don't plan on selling it that way. I'm sure someone else will own it 30 years from now.
- Bob

[ABPOS]

The secret with the oilers is to move them in and out as you dismount the sling. A slight push inward or outward makes plenty of clearance to remove the sling. The main thing is to not get frustrated and just keep trying to pull it out. My NPM has a beautiful Inland I cut (high wood trimmed and .U. mark) that has screwdriver injuries from some idiot trying to remove the oiler.

IMHO, it's easier said than done.

[JimF4M1s (Deceased)]

The sling/oiler removal can be hard/frustrating to do. Best advice is take your time.

Dave goes about it slow a easy with wiggles (safe on the stock). I do the same, works every time with a C clip sling.

The ends on a D clip sling are thicker. If I get a carbine with D clips I take those slings off and put a C clip sling back on with a coded oiler to maker. Yep, I have a bunch of IS oilers left over. If nothing else for the looks and I want the coded oiler in place. Personally I don't like the D clips.

Most of the time the D clips do not want to come out. I think sometimes the fabric is also thicker whether from age or design. I put the D clip on a leather pad and tap it with a rubber mallet. I know, not kosher, but works for me.

Then I sell the D clip slings.

Jim

[frankderrico]

ABPOS, it helps if they are in the right way as opposed to backwards. Tip comes through the side of stock closest to the butt plate, left side looking down. Put the oiler in its slot to the bottom. Sling tip with plenty of slack over and through the right side looking down. Lace it through its keeper on the inside. HTH.....Frank

[ABPOS]

I'll have to get pics up. I don't know what kind of sling I have. It's OD in color though. And the fabric does seem thick.