How to Make an M1 Shoot Better

[Remo]

Great
article and very good points.
Thanks! Remo

[ltcboy]

Great thread.

Mike

[lude92]

so many m1's SO LITTLE TIME

[no4mk1t]

Thank you for taking the time to post the good pictures and clearlly mark them with red colors. Great tutorial that I need badly.

This seems aimed at those who get a new CMP stocked M1, or go buy a new stock. In your opinion, would a new stock be more accurate in the long run v. a used GI Wood? (some of the GI Stocks seem a bit loose fitting, and the new ones from the CMP are definitely snugger- does this contribute much to accuracy). Said another way, to get the most out of my M1 would it help to buy a new stock v. the old one on it?

Another question from a new M1 guy- how much more will the much written about "gluing of handguards, turning down gas cylinder, cutting down back of gas cylinder" mods do vs. the proper inletting? Do you think it will give even more, or is that extra bit of trouble really worth it? Trying to shoot some JCG Matches soon and not sure if all that cutting on my M1 will really help much....

Thank you for the great article.

If you intend to shoot in CMP Games matches, the only mods allowed are "selective fitting of issue parts". The fit of the stock and the amount of clamping pressure you have are the two most important elements to a good shooting M1/M14 assuming the barrel is good. Most CMP M1's with original GI wood will not have these two crucial properties due to the wood fibers being compressed over the years, and worn trunnions on the trigger guard as shown above. This can be remedied with glass bedding compound, but then you're not CMP legal. The other mods you mentioned are part of what is done to accurize the M1 together with glass bedding. They contribute, but to a lesser degree than stock fit. You would also need to be shooting match ammo to fully appreciate those improvements. So, in a nutshell, for a CMP Games rifle, replace the wood and fit as outlined above. I would also replace the op rod spring with a new one. Don't forget to grease it.

[no4mk1t]

in your line up what is 5th from right?
also 4th from r no trap butt plate?

The rifle that is 5th from the right is the 308 Win. M1 that is the subject of this thread. It is also pictured in profile two pics down.

The 4th from the right is the rifle I shoot in the Rifleman's Weekend matches annually in GA. (largest JCG match outside of Perry and the CMP East/West Games)
It has a layer of Hawkeye shooting adhesive built up on the butt plate which at that angle makes it look like there's no trap door. The adhesive keeps the butt from slipping off your shoulder in rapid fire. Old High Power shooters trick.

---------- Post added at 09:45 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:37 PM ----------

When you "Peened" the last 1/3 of the splines do you use a socket or a brass punch? Or do you use the ball of the machinist hammer?

I worry, and perhaps unfounded of bending or tweaking the barrel...but I supposed a wood block is a good enough back up.

I use the small hammer pictured and just tap on the edges of the spline with the flat face of the hammer. Nothing heavy handed. You only need to displace a small amount of the spline edge to tighten the fit. If overdone, you have to beat too hard on the gas cylinder to drive it into place.

[no4mk1t]

OK, this thread is not getting as much "airplay" as the trigger thread, and that's a shame because it's just as important if not moreso. A few members have replied that they have, or will use this info to improve their M1. It's been 2-1/2 years since the last post, so those that have applied the techniques herein, sound off and tell us about your results.
For those that haven't seen it, the Games matches are coming up. You have time to use this to your benefit and maybe bring home a trinket or two.