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Simple instructions for replacing escutcheon
It is easy to replace the escutcheon. I worked this method out to prevent messing up the stock, and insuring that the new one goes in straight.
First, Remove the recoil plate, then slightly (2 or 3 turns) thread the old screw into the escutcheon. Tap the screw to push the escutcheon out.. Then replace the recoil lug, and stick the new screw through the lug. Started to thread the new escutcheon on the screw until the serrated part touches the bottom of the stock. Wiggle it around to line up with the existing grooves from the old escutcheon and push in. Then use the screw to pull the new escutcheon, by turning the screw in until snug.
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11-02-2012 01:57 AM
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I haven't needed to remove one yet, but think I would try supporting the wood at the bottom to keep it from chipping out around the hole. Maybe back it up with something firm like a hard rubber washer. I have seen a lot of stocks that are chipped in that area. - Bob
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Can anybody hear Happy Gilmore saying gently but irritated, "Just tap it in, just tap it in."
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You know what? The original early manuals called the recoil plate nut an 'escutcheon'. I've been calling it a 'ferrule'. Unfortunately, neither term is correct by definition, but since it has been called an escutcheon since 1943, it's good enough for me. Anyway, many stocks have been chipped trying to remove that nut because years of linseed oil
have glued it in, and built up around the hole. You want to make sure the nut has a clear way out without taking any wood with it, and it probably would be a good idea to let some acetone or lacquer thinner soak down around the nut.
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I know of 2 styles of the late type Escutheon nuts. May be others, depending on makers, Don't know. 
Plus there is the early one with the short splined edge (Don't have a pic of a early one)
CH-P777
I was playing with shading in this picture, trying to mimmick the way S-T-B posts his GB auction pictures.
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Thank You to painter777 For This Useful Post:
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I-44 makes a great point, making sure the grime is cleared away.
I pulled this from a older post.
If I were to change anything..... I would use soapy water to pre-soak the nut.
Removing the original escutheon nut,
I thread a FULLY THREADED RECOIL PLATE SCREW in from the bottom.
I place a hard rubber pad approx 4"x4" with a 1/2" circular hole cut in it. A friend uses leather. To keep from marring the stock.
Then slip a flat washer on top of the pad, centered over the hole in the rubber pad with a inner diameter of 1x2". This will mash down on the rubber pad and brace the wood around the old escutheon nut to keep from breaking or splintering it.
Place the stock on a padded surface upside down.
I then place a soft piece of 1x2 pine with another 1/2" hole drilled thru it on top of the flat washer and rubber pad.
When all 3 holes are lined up I placed a large flat washer with a inner diameter smaller than the head of the recoil plate screw on top of the pine.
Finger start the FULLY THREADED SCREW into the escutheon nut. When you start getting tight, it should start slowly backing out the old nut. On occassion you may have to re-oil from the top.
Works like a poor mans gear puller, but with the padding you won't mar the stock. The washer really helps to support the outer wood near the original nut.
Please see the link below on HOW TO SEAT NEW PLATE AND NUT.... Very Important for proper fit.
Regards,
Charlie-painter777
Remove and Replace Stock Escutcheon
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