Stock finish question

[imarangemaster]

I just finished gluing the crack in the shooter stock I got for the original condition Inland. I got out the BLO and mineral spirits to freshen up the coat on the shooter stock, which needs a little work, probably two coats or so of 50/50 BLO/mineral spirits.

My question is this: The Inland has 95+% original finish on the metal. The factory original stock looks like it has a BLO finish on it, or at least a linseed oil finish polished through the years. The stock could use a little freshening up, so I was thinking of just doing a single wipe of BLO/mineral spirits to perk it up. I am not trying to restore it, just freshen it.

This is the only real collector's piece I have (except maybe my Marlin Century Limited 44-40 with Doug Turnbull color case hardening), and I don't want to affect its original "as issued" condition. You guys are the true, serious collectors. What do you guys think?

Thanks in advance

Information

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[Bubba-7]

50/50 Raw linseed oil, not BLO.

[Johnny Peppers]

If you use the BLO/Mineral Spirits (I like turpentine), put the thinnest coat possible. Just put a dot on the stock and rub it until it will spread no farther. This will liven the stock back up without a heavy coat. Will normally dry in 24 hours. If your stock has a little accumulated grunge, apply a heavy coat of the BLO/MS and let it set about 30 minutes. Then scrub the coat off with toweling, and smooth out any that is left. It probably won't need another coat after this, but if so, apply as noted above.

[imarangemaster]

Why raw Linseed? I've been using the 50/50 BLO mix for years, and have been happy with it. It does a good job of approximating the original finishes after years of burnishing with oily rags and cleaning. I got the idea from the CMP armorer's corner where they recommend it over raw linseed oil. If I were restoring it, I would strip, re-stain and use raw linseed oil, though. I think they soaked them for 24 hours when they made them originally.

[imarangemaster]

The quick wipe is all I was planning on doing. I like the idea of rubbing it on a spot at a time. As to my original question, though, does anyone think the freshening up like this will affect value?

[jimb16]

It shouldn't hurt the value. You aren't doing anything to the stock beyond simple maintenance. That was all the military did to the stock unless it went through a rebuild.

[imarangemaster]

Here are some pictures of the un-messed with Inland stock after gently rubbing in a 50/50 mix of BLO and mineral spirits. The pictures from my cell phone don't do it justice. Really freshened it up. Note CC cartouche in second picture.

[USGI]

Too shiny?? - or was it still wet in the photos? - Bob

[INLAND44]

We say RLO because that's what the Army issued for stock maintenance. You would moisten a patch with it and rub it in all over the stock until basically dry. They were still using it on the M14 when I trained on it in 1966. The reason for RLO is it has no driers in it and does not form a glossy hard finish. Over years of use and rubbing, it will get shiny, which is when the stock should be de-glossed. You don't want a glare coming off the stock of a military arm. All you have to do is to wipe it down with soapy water, steam it or wipe with lacquer thinner. Often a stock will need staining after this. If you don't want to change anything on a collectible carbine, just wipe it down with RLO/Turpentine which will oil it and do a very gentle cleaning. With RLO, you don't leave it wet - it doesn't dry. You wipe it on with a cotton cloth. The Turpentine helps it penetrate faster. BLO/Turpentine will do the same thing but it will dry on the surface and form a hard finish.

[imarangemaster]

It is not wet, just shiny, which is the way the finish was when I got it. Using the BLO/mineral spirits cleaned it, and brought out figuring. I did not want to change it from the way I got it, or restore the finish, just clean it. The picture was taken in bright sunshine.