recoil plate gap

[c east]

My receiver will slide back and forth almost 1/8" gap when forward....Where to start?....Charlie

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[INLAND44]

You're probably going to need a later recoil plate, Type III maybe, don't remember. Possibly somebody has messed with the receiver tang and filed it down out of ignorance of how to install the carbine into the stock. In that case you're screwed unless you are willing to have the tang built up with weldment and reshaped. I've never seen one with a gap that bad. When everything is to spec, you hang the receiver on the plate, and without pulling it down, smack on the buttplate repeatedly to settle the action. It should settle with the barrel over the barrel channel by about 1/8", and it makes a 'clunk' when it settles. Then, the barrel band will lock into place with little to no pulling down on the barrel. With the carbine completely assembled, hold the wrist of the stock with one hand and the barrel with the other - yank back and forth like you're trying to pull the barrel straight out of the carbine. If there is any perceptable movement, adjustment of the recoil plate/receiver tang fit is required. Here is a link to how to adjust the recoil plate, but I don't know if this can account for a gap like you have: http://www.odcmp.com/Training/CR/CarbineNotes.pdf

[painter777]

Charlie,
Is the stock's recoil plate seat crushed down?
I've had a few with this area being pulpy (is that a word? )
If the seat is solid, like I-44 said, I'd try a newer type III plate to see if you get a tighter lock up.
Let us know how it works out.

Cheers,
Charlie-Painter777

[c east]

I have a question into ozark surplus If ( can request a type 3 they seem to have many but say most are type 2 or 3 which sounds iffy....I put that rifle in another stock and all problems went away...I'm going to look for mushiness........ a new stock might be in order, but don't want to spend $300.....Charlie

[INLAND44]

If the recoil plate bedding area is in question, you would normally build it up with bedding compound. If the wood there is rotten/mushy, you first have to soak in a wood hardener. I actually use thin, watery Super Glue. Once the area turns to stone, then you have a base for the build-up. This job involves coating the back of the recoil plate in release compound, setting the recoil plate and removing it later - or not. I'm having trouble imagining how it could be 1/8" off and the screw still hits the hole.