1965 7.62 LeeEnfield, should I buy it?

[BahamaLure]

Firstly - a BIG thank you to you all for the responses, I learned plenty! The rifle's big attraction to me is that it is a Lee Enfield and I have wanted to own one since I shot them extensively at school in England (Malvern) and up until now have not even come close to the chance to do so. This particular one is at the local range, taken in by the owner as an exchange. The owner knows nothing about it other than what he wants for it.

It would appear to be worth maybe $100, he wants $300 and I have a feeling that is too much considering I'd want to at least add PH sights and do a major clean up to make it usable. Bone head that I am I forgot to check of the bolt is a match, I'll do that next visit. I do not mind so much it not being a fabulous collector's military piece, might be better that way so I could use it and work on it without having much to worry about. I am definitely looking for a rifle to use rather than sit.

I might make him and offer I guess, but if he needs near the 300 out of it it may be a bust unfortunately.

[ArtioZen]

Hi BahamaLure I think you have this rifle right for parts / price summary. I have also shot hundreds of rounds out of my example - it required; as others have said adjusing to close its groups and refine its reliability and performance - I was happy to place a 4" group on center at 100yards - which is pretty good for a "battle rifle". This tweaking and testing can be appealing - derives a challenge and satisfaction - sometimes frustration. I had to work out how to keep the PH5A mounted securely and hold zero due to the recoil and small footprint. I am preparing to sell the rifle to make room (the sight sold at the weekend).

[ArtioZen]

There is a (near?) complete Ishapore 2A forarm on the E auction site - item number = 190768012726 Currently a pretty good price. As mentioned in previous posts Ishapore hardware comes up fairly infrequently.

[RobD]

Springfield sporters have the woodwork and the metal bits you need, but even at their resonable prices (see below) you will spend about $150 getting the rifle back to military configuration
e.g.
19C FOREARM, USED- INDIAN - FROM DP RIFLES 35.00
76 HANDGUARD, FRONT - USED, with ears from DP Rifle, with Plate 20.00
77 HANDGUARD, REAR - USED, with ears from DP Rifle, with clip 20.00
8B BUTTSTOCK, Australian, New (SHORT or NORMAL Length SPECIFY) 10.00

[BahamaLure]

Thanks again Gents, have not made it back to the range yet to see which way the wind will blow.

[BahamaLure]

Well the wind blew sort of my way and the seller came down far enough for me to acquire the rifle. The bolt and magazine numbers match so that's a start I guess, so, well, now what do I do?

Checked out the furniture on the auction site, that is climbing towards $100 now, not sure what a max bid on that should be?

Is there are rebuild thread to look at? Or maybe this can become one.

[Ridolpho]

BahamaLure: There are lots of great repair articles/ threads on this forum- for ex. check out Peter Laidlers article on repairing worn "draws". I also found a book on accurizing Lee Enfields by forum member RJW very useful in explaining how No.1's and No.4's are "bedded".

Ridolpho

[newcastle]

What to do is to shoot it first as is. Thing with Enfields is that one is NEVER enough, they are a herd creature. Next step would be to buy one in full military uniform to go beside it. When you are new to these things monkeying around and trying to refurbish one from sporter config is probably not teh best move - I messed a couple up by trying that and wasted money doing it. It's cheaper to to buy one in original condition to keep it company.

[BahamaLure]

Learning to love it for what it is and not try to change it into what it is not does have its advantages for sure. Did some basic cleaning last night and it already looks better, just basting off the lint and dust with compressed air made a big difference!

What I do want to do is obtain some better sights, proper front and rear ring sights not the blade/groove that is there now. What would be the best way to do that?

[ArtioZen]

There are various micrometer rear peep sites that bolt onto this action (SMLE compatible) - usually bolting on in place of the safety spring and requiring slightly longer fasteners - be sure they are included or accounted for in the price. I prefer the Parker Hale PH5A - an online search will provide pictures and specifications - adds great control when in good order and a nice increase in sight radius. I really had to work on the quality and torque of the fasteners to hold zero with the small PH5 footprint and the recoil of a 308. It seems that some sellers are moving the sight bodies without eyepieces to get better prices - also watch / account for this. A full functioning PH5 with fasteners and decent eyepiece can be as much as the original asking pice of this rifle on the open market - shop around!
There are lots of other equivalent sights (some folding or quick detach) such as Central of Australia. The battle sight v notch plate has to be removed (and saved) to allow the new rear sight to see past it.
A more economic way to go is the bolt on rear ring sight appeture plate to replace the vee notch in the stock rear sight position - perpetually listed on auction sites.

The front sight as a ring can be acheived through a tube sight with interchangeable elements. PH make various models - most will require attention to the dovetail mount (various ways forward) - I do not get into these as I prefer the blade front sight - Others may have specific guidance.

A while back I did see an SMLE nosecap with integral tube sight - not seperate parts welded together - it seemed purpose built - but unmarked. I have not seen one since - if anyone can shed any light. this may also get me into element tube sights!

One last check for your new rifle - check the integrety of the front hand guard - especially around the breech - the choice of wood and drying heat / service history can leave this very dry and brittle - clean, oil inside and out and refit if good. I have seen a couple of these rifles with a tell-tale gap between lower front arm and wrist - a possibility of internally crumbling wood rather than bad workmanship.

I hope this helps!