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Removing frightening rear guard screws on Enfields
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12-04-2006 10:49 AM
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Not the same thread. You could maybe force it, but better off just getting the proper part. Marstar or your local gunsmith should have lots given the number of chopped SMLE's that get scrapped each year 
Before vise gripping the screw head, make sure you soak the threaded end in penetrating oil for a few days first.
If it does break in the hole, a $10-15 trip to the gunsmith is in order IMHO.
Союз нерушимый республик свободных Сплотила навеки Великая Русь. Да здравствует созданный волей народов Единый, могучий Советский Союз!
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(Edged Weapons Forum)
Should you proceed with the dirty deed (vice grips) It may be best if you invest in a good set of very small drills and a tiny easy out. Claven2 is quite right using a creep oil for a few days and it may help if you find a hollow ground screw driver to tap lightly prior to removal. Should the screw head break off you need to finely grind the remainder flat, center punch, drill with a #36 drill then go at it with the easy out HTH-SDH
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Advisory Panel
First thing to do is remove the front trigger guard screw if you haven't already done so. The trigger guard is virtually pivoted at the back to a clamping action toward the front. The sharp tap in what's left of the slot with a correct width screwdriver may be all it takes. If you go for the vice grips, a layer of electrical tape over the part of the jaw touching the triggerguard may save you from marking the bluing.
Failing these, with nothing left to lose before drilling, try tapping your smallest punch at the end of the slot to rotate the head. It will either turn or shear off- which will make it easier to centre a centre pop mark for drilling anyway.
Good luck
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Legacy Member

Originally Posted by
Son
First thing to do is remove the front trigger guard screw if you haven't already done so. The trigger guard is virtually pivoted at the back to a clamping action toward the front. The sharp tap in what's left of the slot with a correct width screwdriver may be all it takes. If you go for the vice grips, a layer of electrical tape over the part of the jaw touching the triggerguard may save you from marking the bluing.
Failing these, with nothing left to lose before drilling, try tapping your smallest punch at the end of the slot to rotate the head. It will either turn or shear off- which will make it easier to centre a centre pop mark for drilling anyway.
Good luck
I actually have two of these to deal with...thanks for the advice.
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Canton, buy a can of Kroil, this penatrating oil has been around for years and will enter a gap of 1,000,000 of an inch. I have used this product for years with very good results. It's in an orange and black painted can. It also makes a very good bore cleaner. Try it after you think you have cleaned the rifles bore. The patch will come out almost black!
The tiny drill bit and Easy-out is the way to go.
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Originally Posted by
Rapidrob
Canton, buy a can of Kroil, this penatrating oil has been around for years and will enter a gap of 1,000,000 of an inch. I have used this product for years with very good results. It's in an orange and black painted can. It also makes a very good bore cleaner. Try it after you think you have cleaned the rifles bore. The patch will come out almost black!
The tiny drill bit and Easy-out is the way to go.
I have seen Kroil around...not sure if I can find that in Canada
. Sounds worth a try. Thanks.
I do have Break Free and Liquid Wrench...not as good?
The screws aren't broken off yet...I'm going to score some perfect ones somewhere and give them a shot.
Good bore cleaner eh?
Anyone have 2 or 3 very good SMLE rear guard screws you could drop in an envelope? Paypal?
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Canton, can you send me a photo of the screws you need? I may have a few laying around.
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Originally Posted by
Rapidrob
Canton, can you send me a photo of the screws you need? I may have a few laying around.
duplicate post
Last edited by Cantom; 12-20-2006 at 12:53 AM.
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