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Thread: Lyman TP Bracket ?

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  1. #11
    Legacy Member rgg_7's Avatar
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    Thanks Roger. I'll measure the screws and holes for variation.....would be the only reason for a washer and it's just on one of 3 screws. Any thoughts on the hardened pins? Straight or taperred? Ron

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    Ah........ a mismatch...., just as I suspected. Before you go ANY further Ron, just make sure that before you screw, pin and lock down the rifle bracket that when the telescope and bracket are fitted to the rifle mount that the telescope and rifle bore are collimated. I have fear that while the holes in the body and rifle bracket MIGHT all align in themselves, they won't allow the tele and bore to collimate. I could be wrong of course.

    Quite what you do if you can't get collimation is another matter. But if it does all work, then I'd suggest that if you're going to use it, then sweat the two pads on as the UKicon did during their trials

    In addition to that, I don't recall the pins on our rifle being tapered either. Maybe I just didn't take much notice or just put them back correctly and punched them home

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    Thanks. Ron, I've never taken the pins out of mine - just on the basis that if it ain't broke don't fix it. However, I would not be at all surprised if they're parallel sided. Perhaps someone has a rifle apart that they could have a look at the pins & drop a mike over? If no one else has I'll take a look at removing mine.

    ATB

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    Although, theoretically, the pinned and screwed base in single shear on a flat isn't ideal, there's a parallel development that did quite well in service over a long period of time: The US M1C. More powerful cartridge by a little, but also with the addtional shock and vibration loads from the semi-auto mechanism.

    Given a choice, i would prefer the tapered pin method (especially if trying to mate two used components), but I can't recall the method used by G&H as it's been a while since I either installed one or pulled one apart.

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    Legacy Member snorli's Avatar
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    I have a bracket that as far as I know have not been on a rifle. On this one, the pins appear to have a taper.

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    Contributing Member muffett.2008's Avatar
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    Can you run a vernier across that pin? I'd be interested to know what the taper is.

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    Pins were tapered as I gave a number of them away and might still have a few more around somewhere. There were some short ones and then longer ones in the same box. All were tapered and a small reamer was part of the installation kit. I was talking to an old chum about this the other day as the mind does cloud up over the years and he remembers putting them in the freezer for a day or two and then "walloping the be-jeasus out of them" when installing.
    There were no washers of any kind used with the screws which were tough as h&ll. I think the spec on the screws was L9. Ron will know the exact spec's on that one. They were more tough than hard as I recall. A real bugger to try and cut with a lathe.
    Last edited by Warren; 01-31-2013 at 08:12 PM.

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    Legacy Member snorli's Avatar
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    I'm not able to measure the taper, it must be very slight. However it is noticably felt when entering them in the hole in the bracket.

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    Probably a #1 or#2 Browne and Sharpe taper. But just measuring the big end ought to tell for sure.

    Again, I can't remember, because it gets all mixed up with other taper pin projects, including AR15s and general machinery nonsense. Probably have reamers all the way up to #8 in the collection.

    Might be able to sort some of the mystery today. There may be an M1C bracket and possibly pins at the batcave. And some other G&H debris as well. The upside is that it's where most all of the "non-work" precision measuring junk is as well...
    Last edited by jmoore; 02-01-2013 at 01:50 AM.

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    JM, 'the batcave' ???? I'm intrigued; tell us more! Is this like Warren's sheds???? What other treasures lie therein?

    ATB

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