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Neck sizing 303
Hello all.
After a shoot last week a fellow member suggested that i keep the cases for reloading seperate for my SMLE and No.4. He also added that it maybe a good idea to just resize the neck of the case rather than full resizing. I thanked him for his advice, but as we were both in a bit of a rush to go, didn't ask what just how to neck size only.
Looking through my product info for RCBS i can not find anything on neck sizing only so would welcome any advice on this subject.
As always thanks in advance for your time.
Cheers G.K.
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03-11-2013 06:06 PM
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Personally I only neck resize all my 303 brass. I use a candle and "smoke" the neck then slowly adjust the deprimer die 'till it JUST touches and marks the carbon and that is where I lock in the "travel" of the die.
IIRC I use RCBS dies for 303 however also think Hornady makes excellent product and am now only buying Hornady for any new cal. I need. Hornady service IMO is second to none and if you need parts they are extremely fast at shipping. They also have a fantastic guarantee on their products and are more than willing to help solve your problem.
Once you get onto doing this you will be able to "feel" when the brass is hardening to the point it is time to "anneal" your cases to extend their life.
I am fortunate that I have a good friend who helped me when I started reloading which made things much easier.
I only shoot one of my Lee Enfields so never have to adjust the die for different chambers.
I do keep all my .223 brass separate and reload for each individual rifle I use thus elimating any problems. I suggest you do this for your 303's if you are shooting different guns. As a example I use a separate die for my Savage FCP .223 as it has a Palma Chamber and is extremely accurate. For the M16
platform and VZ58 I use a different die as these guns will generally "eat anyting" I load.
If you are doing serious target shooting with your .303 using a seperate die for that gun is a good idea as not having to "fiddle" with adjustments between different guns/chambers will give you better accuracy.
Yes I am very anal about reloading.
PS, I have learned that using the reloading guide of the bullet manufacturer is the best way to go. If I am using Speer bullets I use a Speer reloading manual. This is important IMO as the company takes into consideration the bullet you are using and as the manufacturer they know the true characteristics of that bullet, composition, bearing surface etc.
IF you compare manuals you will find fairly significant differences in what is recommended for powder charges, ABC, always be careful. Just because you use a load that is safe in one rifle has little bearing if it will be correct for a different rifle.
Last edited by enfield303t; 03-13-2013 at 02:00 AM.
Reason: Spelling of course
Why use a 50 pound bomb when a 500 pound bomb will do?
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Hello all.
First, many thanks for taking time to post up some really useful information on the subject. It has definitely given me lots to consider.
The Lee collet die is totally new to me, so will do some looking up on the product. Thanks for the case comparison and Lee die images, very welcome to a new starter.
I think the way forward is to use a set of dies for each rifle as, when making up dummy rounds as reference there was a notable difference between the two. Also, annealing is something i need to look into futher, as it,s a skill that before long i'm going to need.
Cheers all.
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One thing is to have complete concentration on what you are doing while reloading. I will watch TV while priming but when it comes to weighing powder I don't even listen to the radio and don't allow myself to be distracted. When you are priming and have put the primer in the case rotate the case 180 degrees and press the primer in again, this insures the primer is properly seated and does improve accuracy.
NEVER have more than one powder container open, people have made a mistake and through carlessness loaded with a powder they should not have used for that particular load.
I always put a stip of green masking tap on the lid of the powder dispenser and write on it the powder I have been using. Comes in handy if you don't empty it when you are done and get back to reloading a few days or weeks later.
Weigh every single powder charge if you are not using ball powder, even short cut can be off more than you think. If I am using ball powder I weigh every fifth just to be sure things haven't changed.
Why use a 50 pound bomb when a 500 pound bomb will do?
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Thank You to enfield303t For This Useful Post:
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Whilst reloading i have no other distraction around, for the simple reason that i actually enjoy doing it. That's a very good tip on the powder dispenser, that and the 180 degree turn of the case during priming would have never occurred to me. Thanks for sharing.
My first powder when starting out in this hobby was a cylindrical type (are you aloud to name it?) and i did a few test runs with loads with the dispenser. As you say they can differ quiet a bit.
Again, thanks for your help and time.
Cheers all.
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Ok,maybe it's early so forgive a stupid question but I find this interesting since I have this addiction to Enfield Rifles
. I can see the backed off depriming die working for this procedure and then I really like the idea of candle soot to get it just right but if this die is backed of enough to just size the neck does the die still deprime the brass?
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Originally Posted by
mtbikerwvu
...if this die is backed of[f] enough to just size the neck does the die still deprime the brass?
Just adjust your depriming stem downward. The important thing to remember is to move it back up if you reset the die to full length size again!
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I seem to get a few more reloads on .303 if I neck size only. I have neck sized .223 but only for one rifle.
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Cheers all.
Grateful for all your information.
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