No.4 trigger guard issues

[bow]

I have chiseled out old draws , patched new ones and fitted tightly. When i reassemble the rifle, now trigger guard doesn't fit flush on its groove. When the area around the main screw is in contact with its wood slot, trigger guard holes are a bit lower than wrist -holes. So the 4 holes ( two holes in trigger-guard + two holes in wrist) are not aligned. I can reassemble the rifle but... trigger guard doesn't sit flush, for 2-3 mm. i have to push it in place. How to fix it?

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[Paul S.]

When viewed from the side does your trigger guard have a slight bow in it? Whether it is supposed to have it or not, at least one of my rifle's trigger guard has a bow. I make a habit of doing up the wrist screw first.

[Parashooter]

Perhaps you made the new draws a little taller (or longer) than the receiver warrants - preventing the forestock from seating high enough to align the holes for the rear triggerguard screw. Since this will affect the rest of the bedding, it might be prudent to pare them down a bit.

[bow]

Perhaps you made the new draws a little taller (or longer) than the receiver warrants - preventing the forestock from seating high enough to align the holes for the rear triggerguard screw. Since this will affect the rest of the bedding, it might be prudent to pare them down a bit.

Just checked. Draws are level with old lumber behind them

[Ridolpho]

Bow: Can you tell if the action body is sitting down into the forend as far as it did before your repairs? The sear lugs may be hanging up or wedging against the draws before the forend fully seats calling for a little more careful final sanding of the new draws? Finicky to the nth degree and if you go too far with the sanding...............

Ridolpho

[Peter Laidler]

We used a DRIFT, Armourers No1 (or was it 4) - a shaped wooden block to you and me - for making sure that the fore-end was fully seated onto the body.

Bow. If the trigger guard was seating properly BEFORE you patched the draws but not now, then the patching or fit MUST be the cause of the problem. But please ignore any advice about bending your trigger guard. It MUST be flat.

If th3e fore-end if fitted to the body fully and properly and the trigger guard is flat, then just scrape away any high spote until the rear trigger guard screw aligns and fits, the trigger guard lays flat (but I wouldn't object to a VERY slight amount of spring - but only a VERY slight amount mind you - ) and the front trigger guard screw aligns and is able to be screwed up tight onto the correct-for-length collar

[bow]

Tomorrow morning i'll check up the all bearing areas using chalk....

---------- Post added at 10:48 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:46 PM ----------

We used a DRIFT, Armourers No1 (or was it 4) - a shaped wooden block to you and me - for making sure that the fore-end was fully seated onto the body

Peter , could you explain how Drft, Armourers No1 ( or 4) is done? I believe that all Enfield world will be enthousiasthic to know more about it..

[Peter Laidler]

Don't use chalk, it's not accurate enough. Use engineers blue. The drift was a shaped block of wood that would fit into the trigger guard recess (Every Armourer had his own different idea of how it would fit and where but suffice it to say, it did not allow you to damage or bruise the fore-end..... As for the ISSUE drift....., well I never quite worked it out!). Fit the fore-end after patching and knock the fore-end down and rearwards onto the body using the wood drift until the fore-end is a perfect fit. If not perfect, just keep fitting until it is.

REMEMBER. NEVER, but never, ever, pull the fore-end down from the muzzle end to remove it. ALWAYS knock it downwards across the rear top ledges to break the butt-socket-to-draws taper in order to remove the fore-end.

This experience has taken YEARS to learn Bow and just can't be passed on in a few short sentences. But I'm trying!

[bow]

Don't use chalk, it's not accurate enough. Use engineers blue.

Done . Now trigger guard sit reasonably flat ,but i could do better. This evening i'll go further using red ink: i have not got engeneers blue and none seems to own it near my town. Probably ink would be a good substitute. How i did it? Simple! i smear trigger guard using red ink and reasemble the fore end. With a 6 mm. sharp chisel i removed marked point only a tiny tiny burr at a time. Now trigger guard could be fastened with no effort at all. Thanks Peter!

I doubt my patching the draws skill: i saw the wood peg a little larger than it's needed, and after a try to reasemble the rifle . Usin an hammer i let sear lugs do the work. When sear lugs stop to cut the peg , then i remove a tiny burr with the chisel paying attention to follw the right angle.
Is this a wrong procedure?

[ssj]

"correct for length collar", I assume from reading bit-n-pieces Ive come accross that the collar for the front main trigger screw should not be shortened too much? ie the top of the collar beds against the bottom of the receiver while the trigger guard beds against the bottom? Hence you dont crush the forewood too much? Im assuming this as the notes Ive seen on shortening it talk about doing so in small amounts...which looking at my collar I cant fathom as its way short.



If this is correct then bubba "bless his cotton socks" has taken the collar on my gun and chopped it 3+mm too short. The result is potentiallly quite a squeeze on the forewood and that might explain the nice big crack just there...(I'll ask how to best repair this in another thread).