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Everything works. Pull the hammer back, the cylinder rotates. It lines up correctly. Pull the trigger the trigger falls crisply. Loading handle is a bit loose at the muzzle end but seems normal. It won't pop loose on it's own. It functions smoothly.
I don't think the cylinder soaked in rust remover because the nipples are still black from either powder residue or rust or both. But it easily could have had it coated on. Or it could have been fired and not cleaned properly after the rust was removed. I'm guessing that whatever was done to it did not weaken it structurally? I imagine the pressures we are dealing with here are pretty low compared to modern firearms.
The wedge will not tighten up the gun when pushed in by hand. It's close but it's just a bit loose. A tap or two with a small block of wood tightens it up just fine but it is almost touching the screw at this point. Perhaps that is normal. I do have a replica Walker, that's how I knew how to take the thing apart but I only ever shot that once and couldn't hit the broadside of a barn with it.
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06-14-2013 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by
Aragorn243
It's close but it's just a bit loose.
I have dealt with one like that. Saved the pain of filing up a new wedge from scratch by a touch of judicious peening to spread the wedge face a little, then a touch with the diamond file where it was too tight. Result: optimum wedge fitting. And collectors please note: that is just sensible maintenance to keep the revolver functioning correctly, not destroying a holy relic!
Caution! Depending on the wear on the slots, you may be able to tighten up the cylinder/barrel gap a couple of 1/1000. I was working on a tatty replica, and had to enlarge the barrel slot anyway, because the axle slot was larger, meaning that when the wedge was tight in the barrel slot it was still loose in the axle slot. So while I was at it, I used the file to shift the outer (?) end of the barrel slot a tiny bit further out, in order that the wedge could drive the barrel slot further inwards before it was fast in the axle slot. Do it on the wrong end, and the gap will widen! It is difficult to think this through in vacuo. without the bits in front of me! Work out carefully what you need before acting.
Peening hammer, diamond or fine file, marking blue, and go slowly!
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Yes! The one I would like most (after a Remington) - The Starr DA/SA. A versatile mechanism.
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Legacy Member
First let me say that in my opinion the Remington was a far better revolver then the Colt. However the Colt was more popular and Colt sold more revolvers only because he was a master at marketing the guns. The solid frame was so much better and I believe Colt had to wait for the solid frame patent to expire before he could produce the solid frame revolvers like the 1873 Colt.
But that video test was a joke as far as accuracy comparisions and the penetration tests went. No comparison of accuracy can be done by shooting free hand but needs to be done where the gun is in a solid/inmovable rest. And as far as the penetration test, it looked like the Colt bullet entered almost between the two blocks of wood. Of course there is less resistance to penetration. The Colts barrel is 7-1/2" and the Remington's 8". The same bullet and load should produce about probably the same penetration as I doubt the 1/2" would make that much of a difference. The video was entertaining but not very accurate.
Also as far as the danager of shooting the old black powder guns, as long as the bore is clear and the cylinder lines up there isn't much danger in firing it. You can't overload black powder, if you did over load it, the excess powder will blow out the muzzle burning. The only danger would be if there was a bore obstruction and that would create dangerous pressure. The only thing I can think of is one of the old moving parts could break or in the case of a revolver, the cyliner next to the one being fired might let off also. The bullet shooting off and glancing against the frame and off at an angle but with low velocity. I've had that happened to me several times because the bullet may have been a bit to small and/or not enough grease was applied over the face of the cylinder to prevent a spark to get past the bullet in the chamber.. Ray
Last edited by rayg; 06-30-2013 at 05:37 PM.
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Contributing Member
I spent some more time investigating the "looseness" of the Colt. It turns out it is not the wedge which is loose but the arbor. It isn't coming out or anything but it has a very slight movement to it if you wiggle it from side to side.
Does this present a hazard? Recommendations for repair seem pretty dramatic and likely to devalue the piece.
The pin looks tight, maybe if I tighten the wedge more it will lock everything in place? I do not want to damage it so I'm proceeding with caution with this.
This would seem to be a weakness with the open top design.
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Legacy Member
If arbor is loose don't shoot it. It is repairable but it is tough job. When i was reading your post and you were writing about the wedge fit i thought the arbor might loose. Your cylinder gap is set arbor length. If the arbor is tight and you can change cylinder gap with the wedge the arbor is too short.
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Advisory Panel
What a nice gun you have there Conec...
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Contributing Member

Originally Posted by
Mike 56
If arbor is loose don't shoot it. It is repairable but it is tough job. When i was reading your post and you were writing about the wedge fit i thought the arbor might loose. Your cylinder gap is set arbor length. If the arbor is tight and you can change cylinder gap with the wedge the arbor is too short.
Mike,
I don't think the looseness affects the cylinder gap at all, it was just a very slight side to side movement. The cylinder gap looked fine. It's hard to describe but you can't really see it move but I can feel it. If you pull out on the barrel, no movement. If you move it side to side, slight movement. Remove the cylinder and you can move the arbor.
I doubt it will ever be fired but it would be nice if it was known it could be fired.
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If the arbor moves at all you should not shoot it.
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