polyurethane removal

[INLAND44]

Drying oil - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

That's bullschiesse! Raw linseed oil is not a 'drying oil' - boiled linseed oil is a drying oil because it contains 'driers'. It could be considered a 'varnish' or 'coating'. RLO is a wood treatment that is absorbed by the wood, which is why it cannot be a 'drying oil'.

[sakorick]

That's bullschiesse! Raw linseed oil is not a 'drying oil' - boiled linseed oil is a drying oil because it contains 'driers'. It could be considered a 'varnish' or 'coating'. RLO is a wood treatment that is absorbed by the wood, which is why it cannot be a 'drying oil'.

Agreed. At one time I had a picture of stocks being immersed in hot raw Linseed oil for some 24 hours then lined up to air dry. That was it. Since most of us don't have vats of raw Linseed oil, I have found many thin coats work very well to give a accurate finish. When the stock doesn't drink any more, the job is done. In WWII, unit armors had bottles of Linseed oil in their kit. That's what I know on the subject.....or a least what I think I know. I will never use anything but raw Linseed oil on a US or British stock as this is what was applied at the factory. Regards, Rick.

[ChipS]

This excellent discussion is one reason why I keep coming back to this forum. I offer the following 1) When the man says it's polyurethane I assumed it is polyurethane; 2) I have had excellent results with Formby's Furniture Restorer (stripper) on just about everything, with only slight danger of explosion; 3) I have come over from the dark side of BLO to the RLO 'force' as a result of recommendations presented in this forum.

But, I am wondering if 'over time the repeated applications of raw linseed oil built up resulting in a hard, glossy finish' (I paraphrase some unnamed sage) then why would it not be acceptable to use BLO, maybe over RLO, to accelerate the 'aging' process on a stripped stock? Do the driers in BLO not evaprate leaving the same base LO compound in/on the wood? If we strip a stock, do we want a flat replacement finish that is close to a brand new factory original finish, or one with a little semi-gloss that better matches the normal bumps and bruises that also appear to have been around awhile (without being around a long while)? I don't know but I think maybe the best answer might be somewhere in between. Any thoughts?

Finally, since we're on the topic of stockwork, I just re-finished a stock with black (not dark - black) blotchy stains at the butt end and the nose, which I assumed was from oil penetration. This poor stock was Bubba-cut for M2 and I had to strip, degrease, lay in wood and cut/sand to original shape before refinishing. I used Formby's Restorer, laquer thinner, mineral spirits, TSP, steam heat and absorbent materials REPEATEDLY on this stock to remove the stain and thought I had most of it out. Then I applied the RLO and it came back just as black as ever. Is there a secret here I don't know about or are some wood staiins unfixable? What say, Frank? This appears to be a stain (not a paint), but I am beginning to believe it may be a chemical burn or somethong of that sort. It does not appear to be heat charred but who knows? Anyway, the stock is done and turned darker overall after I stripped and oiled it, so the stains are not so apparent. I would still welcome advice for the next time. Thanks. ChipS

[WarPig1976]

BLO is not a coating or a varnish, it soaks in and leeches out until it polymerizes which takes weeks. I use it because I don't have time or the patience to palm in oil for weeks and months and years. Nothing wrong with that technic, just think BLO is quicker and you get the same results...
Boy oh boy, INLAND44 you make BLO sound like Bubba goo i.e. TRUOIL....

[I.H.1989]

so what would be the best way to remove this coating? should i have it shipped to someone who restores stocks or would it be better to do it myself

[WarPig1976]

Go to Home owner Harry's or Lowe quality and buy StripX I think is the name it's in a red can. If you get stuck or your unsure of your next step come back we'll talk you though. It's really not that hard and you really can't mess up.

Strip
Remove residue
Apply Oil finish

[frankderrico]

I.H.1989, send me a PM and I would be happy to give you advice.

Regards.....Frank

[frankderrico]

I.H. 1989 I sent you a PM. I have done a lot of varnished/urethane stocks both G.I. and German. Customers are always happy. If you need me to do it send me some pics and I will give you a quote.


Chips if your stain is natural you're not going to remove it. If it's a metal stain, hard to remove and you have to start over. Google search in the upper right corner of page and you should get some help on metal stains. Also pics will help.


Best Regards.....Frank

[shadycon]

I had a stock a few years ago that was a sticky mess. I guessed that it was real old varnish. You could scrape it off with a fingernail. I stripped it and washed the residue off, let it dry,reoiled with BLO. I am happy with the results,Looks its age. PS, this was before I found any gun forums. GK

[INLAND44]

BLO is not a coating or a varnish, it soaks in and leeches out until it polymerizes which takes weeks. I use it because I don't have time or the patience to palm in oil for weeks and months and years. Nothing wrong with that technic, just think BLO is quicker and you get the same results...
Boy oh boy, INLAND44 you make BLO sound like Bubba goo i.e. TRUOIL....

Actually I love BLO and keep a can around all the time, cut with Turp. I use it on misc. things like wood tool handles, wheelbarrow handles, etc.It makes a great oil finish on any smooth stock on good condition by rubbing on with #0000 steel wool and rubbing til dry. I have put it on a carbine stock when I didn't know any better. BTW, I trained on the M12 in 1966, and they were still making us use RLO on those wood stocks. And I loved that rifle - what a sweet shooter! But for some reason they seem so much heavier now....