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.45-70 Springfield questions
Been offered a 1888 model rod bayonet, (bits of this missing) apart from that the rifle is in nice condition, apart from a few knocks on the "trap" it looks like hammer marks or similar, this seems to have excess play in the open posisition and some in the closed position, due to age would expect play but how much is too much ?
I intend to shoot it (if I buy it), the bore is good but has some pitting, thing is I dont want to use Black powder, and have looked on line at various loads etc, the lee loading book has a few using modern powders, just wonder what others use if not using black powder ?
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10-10-2013 12:30 PM
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I've loaded 45-70 with a plethora of powders...if you check with the Lyman loading info, they have three specific areas for 45-70. One for Trapdoor, one for lever guns, and the one for Ruger singles. It would depend on what powders are available to you currently and which bullet you use. I NEVER used black. I had trouble stabilizing a long bullet so I would just use the 405 grain or 300 or 340 grain projectiles...I did find that 45-70 was a very easy cartridge to light, no special primers required, like some demand.
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Thank You to browningautorifle For This Useful Post:
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just make sure you pick the trapdoor loading section, original trapdoors were meant to shoot black.
charles
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I have an original 1973 & I shoot smokeless in it all the time. (over 700 rounds). I use 34g (by wt.) of Reloder 7 & a 405g 458 dia. Jacket bullet. It shoots very accurate at 100yds.
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Originally Posted by
mannparks
original trapdoors were meant to shoot black
Yes they were, but that's why there's a section for them. I'd just load at the bottom end until I was sure it was OK. Thing about them is, if you're too hot by just a bit, the breech will pop open. Of course you wouldn't be using the full house loads...if you buy factory, they'll be loaded down too. When I bought factory, I immediately took them apart and recharged them as they were very light. That was for the 86 Win and Ruger #3 of course...
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Well its mine (still got to pay) but thought I,d give it a go, thats the problem with buying the books first.... bought them a few weeks back, Collectors only, The .45-70 Springfield, by Joe Poyer and Craig Riesch, plus the Loading book by J.S and Pat Wolf, pity it doesnt give much on smokeless. Have had a look here and there, Older Than Dirt mentions Reloader 7, which a few mentioned today when I was pricing up the components in a local shop, have put a wanted add in the WTB, for a set of dies. should be out with it next month.
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Yes they were, but that's why there's a section for them. I'd just load at the bottom end until I was sure it was OK. Thing about them is, if you're too hot by just a bit, the breech will pop open. Of course you wouldn't be using the full house loads...if you buy factory, they'll be loaded down too. When I bought factory, I immediately took them apart and recharged them as they were very light. That was for the 86 Win and Ruger #3 of course...
Breech fly open??? If you will notice that when the hammer is down on the firing pin (breech block) you can not open the block because the thumb release catch is under the hammer. It just won`t happen. Now on the other hand, a while back there were some modern made TD`s made by H&R that had some kind of breech problem when firing off a round, but just can`t remember what caused it. I do know it wasn`t from a to powerful load.
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Yes, it was a modern H&R, come to think of it...
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dont know how much help these photos will be but here is my photos of my 1888 rod bayonet trapdoor .....ignore the sling - it came that way & yes i know its on wrong
we may need to seek out a replacement bayo for you - i cannot tell for sure by the photos but it looks a little off , should be three shoulder cuts
Last edited by A square 10; 11-25-2013 at 08:41 PM.