Here's a better alternative to the 'nose-of-a-round' trick and a good way forward. Ask your local machinist if he'll machine up a small, say 5" or so length of stainless steel bar .307" diameter for half its length. This MUST NOT enter the muzzle by more than 1/4". You could ask him to machine the other end to .308" and this end MUST NOT enter the rifled area of the leed by more then 1/4". Some of you will/might agree with this simple and cheap ploy on the basis that this is a) what the bible says and b) a slightly more accurate method of gauging muzzle wear that relying on the dubious curvature of a ball round/projectile to indicate, well......, anything really in my humble oipinion for what it's worth. And c) you've also got a sort-of substitute tapered .308" No2 SM-126 gauge.
If you want the other gauge limits while you're there, then a .301" MUST run freely. The No1 rifle allowed a .303" to run but this was changed later to standardise the bore criteria for the No1 and 4 rifles post war.
Like I say, or humbly suggest, then if your rifle - or the one you're looking to buy fails these tests then range/accuracy test it. It could be perfect. Anyone need to know the accepted accuracy criteria?