PPCo Patt18 Scope Repairs

[Son]

I've been taking in and carefully considering all the options put forward. Even as a machinist and an armourer I have learned a thing or three from the contributions here, and I thank everyone for their time and effort.

I have always leaned toward restoration purely for preservation. I would rather leave the pitting on the tube and reblue over it than fill it or hide it.
My personal view, it isn't a new scope painted, it (will be) an old scope de rusted and blued to protect whats left. What I will do can be reversed at any stage if some future custodian chooses to go down a different road. At least I know the rust that was still present under the paint it had is now gone and should not (hopefully) be a problem again.

Thank you all again for the informative nature of the posts. Please keep the discussion going, I am sure many are reading this!

Regards,
Brad

[Bindi2]

Will be very interested to see the end result on the tarp.

[Peter Laidler]

If the pits go right through.......... lead load and make good! It ain't going to distort at those temps and the best bit is that you've replaced metal with more metal and not splodge!

Annanuvverfing chaps........... Never forget that no matter how good it looks, blueing USED to be called RUST blueing. That's because nobody likes to be reminded that all it is, same as the old Brens and pistols and No4's et al that it is really nothing more than controlled corrosion. The best bit is that............ or the WORST bit is that thereafter, unless it's hermetically sealed, that you ain't got any control of it!

(That';s not truly 100% correct of course as metallurgy is well beyond my mech eng quals and is a degree in its own right. But the facts are correct!)

[muffett.2008]

Bindii, if the pits were through there are two alternatives(three if you throw it away)
1. clean back to bare metal and lead wipe. Problem is it will need to be painted, not original finish.
2. As the tube is pretty basic, make a new one, if there's a worry about the bell, cut and join under the mount.

Problem is the pitting is usually on the left side on these scopes, the right side is usually good.
Birchwood Casey make a metal blacking solution, this can be used on the inside Brad, or blue it.
The original finish was also on a reasonably polished surface, not dull or flat, however as previously stated, you could acid etch the metal to give a slightly rougher texture, making the pitting blend in more, or sandblast.

I don't remember if that blacking solution works on solder,may be worth checking,in which case the lead wipe repair could be feasible.

If you used an ammonium nitrate blueing solution you will also get the dull more even patina, as opposed to the normal blueing solutions, basically eroding the sharp edges of the pitting, and being less reflective, less noticable.

[Son]

Very interested in your suggestions for finish, Kev. I was going to experiment with Birchwood Casey Super Blue. I have had good results in the past getting a deep, near black finish on small parts using several applications. What would your experiences say with regard to products for the inside, outside and the visible brass? We have a product used for putting an aged look on brass, it will almost blacken it, just leaving a hint of shine... cannot recall the name of it... "something Patina" Usually used for blackening lead solder in stained glass work. Unfortunately it doesn't seem to permanently colour steel.

Once again, any suggestions on what you guys have had success with?