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You're on the spot; at a gunshow or a friend's house, looking to buy an Enfield, but how are you going to know if the barrel is worn out or not? This video will explain how far between new or worn out your barrel is, and a few nifty tricks anyone can do to find out if you should buy it or not.
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This was semi-OK until the presenter started talking about putting a cartridge in the chamber and expecting it to stop before entering fully - absolutely baffling bit of misinformation! Then he went into rifling wear and ran completely off the rails.
Last edited by Parashooter; 03-21-2014 at 12:47 PM.
I haven't had the privilege (? spelling.....) of actually looking at this fairy story yet. Maybe it's the hoary old chestnut of putting the nose of the round into the muzzle that sort of gave me what we sceptics call 'bad vibes.......'
Then Peter, wait for his explanation of how .303 round will stop about a 1/4" before going into the chamber. That will be correct he says...if the rim meets the breech it's worn out...interesting...
This sort of stuff can be very confusing for amateurs like myself. I've concluded that I'm not capable of meaningfully evaluating a partly shot-out bore and for new shootable guns I simply look for obviously very lightly used bores. No gauges necessary, simply mirror bright with sharp, unworn rifling- like you'd find in a new off the shelf Remington or Winchester. I've managed to buy numerous rifles in that condition spanning the entire range of Lee Enfields from an RIC carbine to 1965 2A1. On the other hand, for a historically important model or date or version I don't pay much attention to the bore at all- it just doesn't matter that much. And, of course, in the latter category you can be surprised and get decent accuracy out of a miserable appearing bore. I'm constantly surprised by the way my Eddystone P14 shoots with a horrific pitted/ rusty bore with substantially rounded lands.