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Continuation of 2010 post for "No 32 mk3 turrets wont turn"
Last edited by corco; 07-25-2014 at 01:02 PM.
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07-25-2014 12:55 PM
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FYI - if Mr. Laidler ever wanted to have an online No 32 class I would pay for that. I think an Internet connection, web cam, microphone and laptop with something such a Skype installed on could work?
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Just be a bit brutal and tap the underside of the drum heads a bit at a time, alternately and the complete turret head will start to lift clear. It will bring with it the turret assembly, the lead screw and lead screw nut.
When it and the other one is out, the clicker plungers will be easy to lift out with snipe nosed pliers. But before this happens, the graticle block will probably spring out because you haven't released the load on the graticle shoe springs. When the grat block springs out (that holds the grat and crosswire, but don't worry I'll send you some more cross wire.....) the grat block shoes will follow and being an akward shape that will not spring OUT, they will fold backwards into the main tube.
When that happens you will need to remove the erector cell, but not always of course as you CAN get the shoes to fall out after they have contaminated the front lens in the erector cell.
Got that so far...................... There's no need to send it to the UK, there are several others in the US and Canada who can repair these.
If I was you I would practice with an old heap first
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Thank You to Peter Laidler For This Useful Post:
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Thank you Peter for your honesty. I think I might just say a little prayer and mail it off and save the cursing for someone else. You are right my first repair should be on an old heap instead of turning this one into an old heap.
I just wanted to learn while my mind is somewhat in tact and there are kind folks like you to help guide us so that when there are no more experienced and highly skilled people around we can still have some idea on how to fix these pieces of history.
I put the same screws in the same holes they came out of. At least whoever gets to work on it has 4 8BA screws they don't need to coax them out.
Thanks,
Corco
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If it comes here please remove the bracket as it goes into a special 'spit' jig and it tested for 'fastness' on a slave jig on a slave rifle.
You are game to try but there are many pitfalls. To be honest, I don't mind putting the 'triers' work right. But just so loing as that ain't knackered the parts that you cannot replace. And the MOST important piece is the centre spindle. And that is in the very centre of the bit you're messin' with!
Incidentally, you say it looks perfect but it ain't because the cement/balsam is breaking down. You can see this by the yellow/brown ring around the edge of the rear ocular lens
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