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Reloading Wolf Steel Cases
I saw recently in another forum where some guys were talking about reloading Wolf steel cased ammo. Much of this ammo is apparently boxer primed. They used a separate set of dies from those used for brass, and lubed the cases or every other case.
I have some fired .45 ACP Wolf steel cases, boxer primed, that has no type of laquer on them. I wonder if short, straight wall steel pistol cases would be a problem to reload? I would think that the short pistol cases should not be as subject to work hardening as the longer or bottleneck cases would. Anyone have any experience with this?
I am not yet sure that I want to try this. You can say this is a dumb idea, and it may well be a dumb idea, but with the price of components now, more and more ideas are coming up for consideration.
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03-23-2009 07:27 PM
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Load up 10 Rounds and see, you are right at today's prices you have nothing to loose, I would only use cases that I knew were shot and picked up the same day as they will rust.
Post your results.
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Well, this was a quick experiment (at least for me). With a little time on my hands tonight, I reloaded one round w/ a 230 FMJ bullet without powder and with an expended primer. I am pretty sure the cases are the new "polymer coated". I cleaned the case by hand, did not tumble it. It ran through all dies with no trouble, real slick and smooth just like brass. However, when I chambered the dummy round, the bullet was depressed 3/100 further. (I only lubed the outside of the case slightly, not the inside.)
One COULD say I need heavier taper crimp, and maybe the case is thinner. However, my crimp die is fine for all my brass cases of varied makers and thicknesses, and I do not experience that problem with my diverse range brass. I suspect it could be that the steel case just will not retain or "grasp" the bullet enough for a reload. In any event, I'm done, to me not worth the risk of elevated pressures.
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you didn't say what caliber you were shooting.
if it is .45 or 9 mm they have some relatively reasonable prices on BRASS at Dillon.
The Steel will eventually Scratch you dies then you are screwed.
Also, if you raise a burr on the case, you can then screw up your chamber.
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In the first post I think I said .45 ACP. Yes, IF I decided to try it in any quantity, I would have picked up some used or cheaper .45 ACP dies, and not use my regular set on the Dillon press. That is what the guys in another forum claimed that they did.
I share your concern about steel on steel in an expensive firearm chamber. However, the Wolf cases are soft, polymer coated and prob fine when used one time as designed. The one minor experiment I did with reloading indicates to me that the steel cases will not reliably grasp the bullet upon reloading, and personally I dont think adjusting the crimp or the expander plug will help any. IMHO
You wont get me to agree that ANY brass prices right now are reasonable, but I have an adequate supply, occasionally supplemented by what my good friends in the County Sheriff's Dept leave on the ground :-)
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Something to consider....The expander button on your die is too big for steel cases and won't give you proper neck tension. The brass cases spring back more than a steel case will, so a smaller expander button would be needed to get proper neck tension.
When they tell you to behave, they always forget to specify whether to behave well or badly!
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You may be right, I am frankly skeptical, but if you have experience with it, then ok. Either way, not sure I want to pursue it that far, thx.
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I've reloaded 100's of Wolf .45 steel cases on my 650 and had no problems. Just watch for split cases. Sometimes they split on the first firing or they may never split. Got a few that have been reloaded several times (lost count) and still no splits. Even recycled the 5.56 cases. I do use carbide dies (harder than the mild steel cases, though)
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Wink, do you use a reduced expander button, or a strong taper crimp than on your brass? In my one test, the bullet pushed into the case upon chambering. The setting on the taper crimp die is fine for all my brass, but the steel case would not hold the bullet.
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GS, I just used the Dillon dies with no special attention other than normal cycling through my 650. Haven't had any problems with loose bullets yet. I use W/W 230gr FMJ. with the same die settings as the brass. What dies do you use? I've had your problem with Lyman carbide dies in .45LC. I think the Wolf steel cases can be a little iffier on specs and elasticity than brass.