New M1 Garand Owner - Hello and Questions

[browningautorifle]

There is a forum very similar to this one

What was wrong with this one again?

[sarge508]

Jim, maybe I was misunderstood, this is a great forum with wonderful members. I was just trying to point a direction to more information as others do when suggesting the CMP forum or Brownell's. Best wishes to all, Ed

[Brian Dick]

I think you'll find Hoppes #9 a better rust remover than WD40. I can't agree more about Superlube grease as mentioned by Sarge508. My friend Bruce Dow in Florida turned me on to it many years ago and I've been using it ever since. It is simply the best stuff I've ever used on the M1 and M14 among others and it's way superior to Lubriplate which was the original grease used. It sticks and you'll immediately feel the rifle became smoother. A little dab'll do ya!

[fjruple]

Hi welcome to the forum and congrads on your new M1 Rifle. You will enjoy shooting the rifle. I good range test is a must to see how the rifle will perform. I am banking on the rifle not being accurate the way the muzzle completely swallows the cartridge bullet tip in your pics. If the barrel is a goner your definitely want to replace the barrel to get the rifle's full shooting potential. Since a barrel can be a significant investment you may want to consider changing the caliber to 308 Winchester as that cartridge is more readily available. Again its more of a personal choice. I would strongly recommend that you replace all of the springs with new fresh springs. I am guessing from the date on the barrel. Your Garand probably seen its last complete servicing in 1967 or 68. The Garand is a great rifle to shoot!! Good luck and again welcome to the forum.

--fjruple

[Neal Myers]

The photos really help. What I see in a Springfield Armory rifle, made in June 1944. It has been completely rebuilt, probably multiple times, & I haven't seen any parts, other than the receiver, that are original. So, no need to worry about "matching" parts, like most rebuilds it's all mixed. The SA barrel was made in 1967; I don't know that you can use anything except a USGI M2 ball round as a "poor man's muzzle wear gauge". Commercial bullets aren't necessarily the same shape. (If the bullet is swallowed by the muzzle with M2 ball, the barrel is likely shot out.) The stock appears to be USGI birch, which some civilian attempted to stain red; I can't tell how bad the crack is.

Your real problem is the rust; this is what typically happens after a couple of years of storage in a wet basement or rental locker. It's pretty bad, affecting critical surfaces on the receiver, trigger group, even the chamber. Rust is not a "coating"; it is a LOSS OF STEEL. Rust (ferric oxide) can sometimes be safely removed, but the surface would need refinishing. I think that it is too extensive to be removed with Kroil & a bronze brush. In its current condition, I don't think your rifle is safe to shoot.

If it were my rifle, I'd send it to an armorer (a gunsmith familiar with military firearms) for a "technical evaluation". As long as the receiver is sound, every other part can be replaced. Chuck Moline at Warpath Vintage, posts on this forum, & will be glad to talk to you.
Phone 720-841-1399
Email: molinenorski@msn.com

This is just my opinion, others may vary. But, this is a high power rifle that you will fire a few inches from your face; I just don't want to see you hurt, I'd rather err on the side of caution.

Neal

[Rhino-lfl]

Hi welcome to the forum and congrads on your new M1 Rifle. You will enjoy shooting the rifle. I good range test is a must to see how the rifle will perform. I am banking on the rifle not being accurate the way the muzzle completely swallows the cartridge bullet tip in your pics. If the barrel is a goner your definitely want to replace the barrel to get the rifle's full shooting potential. Since a barrel can be a significant investment you may want to consider changing the caliber to 308 Winchester as that cartridge is more readily available. Again its more of a personal choice. I would strongly recommend that you replace all of the springs with new fresh springs. I am guessing from the date on the barrel. Your Garand probably seen its last complete servicing in 1967 or 68. The Garand is a great rifle to shoot!! Good luck and again welcome to the forum.

--fjruple

I will actually replace the barrel ... even if there is still some life left in it, I'd like for her to be in good working order. As far as the barrel goes ... at least on this gun, it is one of the few things I won't do myself so hopefully I can find an armorer around here and buy a good barrel online. As far as that goes ... the barrel online ... any recommendations? I'd hate for the color of the barrel to be so different from the receiver and guide rod.

---------- Post added at 06:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:16 PM ----------

The photos really help. What I see in a Springfield Armory rifle, made in June 1944. It has been completely rebuilt, probably multiple times, & I haven't seen any parts, other than the receiver, that are original. So, no need to worry about "matching" parts, like most rebuilds it's all mixed. The SA barrel was made in 1967; I don't know that you can use anything except a USGI M2 ball round as a "poor man's muzzle wear gauge". Commercial bullets aren't necessarily the same shape. (If the bullet is swallowed by the muzzle with M2 ball, the barrel is likely shot out.) The stock appears to be USGI birch, which some civilian attempted to stain red; I can't tell how bad the crack is.

Your real problem is the rust; this is what typically happens after a couple of years of storage in a wet basement or rental locker. It's pretty bad, affecting critical surfaces on the receiver, trigger group, even the chamber. Rust is not a "coating"; it is a LOSS OF STEEL. Rust (ferric oxide) can sometimes be safely removed, but the surface would need refinishing. I think that it is too extensive to be removed with Kroil & a bronze brush. In its current condition, I don't think your rifle is safe to shoot.

If it were my rifle, I'd send it to an armorer (a gunsmith familiar with military firearms) for a "technical evaluation". As long as the receiver is sound, every other part can be replaced. Chuck Moline at Warpath Vintage, posts on this forum, & will be glad to talk to you.
Phone 720-841-1399
Email: molinenorski@msn.com

This is just my opinion, others may vary. But, this is a high power rifle that you will fire a few inches from your face; I just don't want to see you hurt, I'd rather err on the side of caution.

Neal

A lot of the rust looking stuff was ancient gun grease of some kind. She looks must better after her #9 bath and a scrub. I will probably do the same thing again and maybe take a copper brush to some of the pieces. The trigger assembly actually looked really good once clean. I will contact the armorer you mentioned as I know for sure that I want to replace the barrel, that is one thing I won't play games with. Who knows, maybe I will just have the remaining parts cleaned and parkerized professionally too.

[WarPig1976]

With all the work that's needed your gonna knee deep into this rifle. None of it's cheap....

[Rhino-lfl]

With all the work that's needed your gonna knee deep into this rifle. None of it's cheap....

What's not cheap about replacing a barrel? Are we talking $1,000 ... $5,000 ... $650,000? Barrels on most guns are only a few hundred bucks unless this is somehow special.

[WarPig1976]

You paid $900 right? Well, a few hundred more puts you right in the neighborhood of M1's that didn't require a new barrel. Add metal refinishing and/or stock work you'll be underwater on this rifle.

[Neal Myers]

Yes, you're right, a new Criterion barrel from CMP is only about $200, plus installation. (No one has NOS USGI barrels, except for a couple of smart folks who have them squirreled away.)

Don't worry about the color of the barrel not matching the rest of the Parkerizing. Actually, different shades of park is desirable, as that is typical for original rifles, assembled from parts in bins. Usually, an all matching color rifle is a commercial repark.

But, WarPig is right, too. I hope that you are right, that all that red stuff is just dried grease and not rust. That's because USGI replacement parts have become scarce & expensive, & it could cost far more than the rifle is worth if you find that there are many parts that are not usable. Let us take a look at it after you have cleaned it.

Neal